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Routes in Sex Cave

.50 Cal S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
38 Special S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bariatric V2 5+
Body Wax S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Castle in the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Donkey Lady S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elephant Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glamorous Pink Elephant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liposuction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Strikes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Roman Orgy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spider Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zen and The Art of Stick Clipping S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sean Donahue
Page Views: 327 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jesse Bruni on Apr 28, 2017
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Linkup of Roman Orgy and 38 Special. After pulling the lip of the cave, find a wide stem to rest before tackling the 13c/V9 38 Special pitch. This is also a good opportunity to deal with the rope management issues.

Location

Start as for Elephant Man. Rope management on this route is tricky, it's best to have two belayers, one for the initial pitch, and one ready to go for the second pitch. The FA was done by pre-clipping a very long sling into the 2nd bolt of 38 Special, which the climber will clip directly into upon reaching it. The sling should be long enough to allow the climber to get into the rest without weighting the sling. When the climber has gone in direct the first belayer should go off belay and either the climber should pull the rope down so that the 2nd belayer can reach it and put him on belay, or the 2nd belayer can snag the rope with a stick clip and pull it down. Once the second belayer is on belay (rope should, at this point, be only going from the climber through the first and possibly 2nd headwall bolts of 38 special and down to the second belayer) the climber can remove the long sling and recover at the rest for however long he needs before finishing the 2nd pitch.

Protection

12 bolts + anchors.

Photos

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