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Routes in Sex Cave

.50 Cal S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
38 Special S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bariatric V2 5+
Body Wax S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Castle in the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Donkey Lady S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elephant Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Head S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liposuction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Strikes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Roman Orgy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spider Grind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zen and The Art of Stick Clipping S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mike Klein
Page Views: 1,697 total, 15/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 30, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Start up Head but break right after the first bolt and tackle the burly boulder problem on pinches finishing with either a cross to or a sword fighter gaston stab to a couple of jug slots, either way accuracy is of the utmost importance to success. After the jugs the holds start out small again but progressively get bigger till the jug horizontal and the final bolt. A few more moves up over the roof then jump off as there is no anchor.

Location

Shares the first bolt with Head then breaks right. The first route left of Body Wax following the steep blunt arete feature.

Protection

5 bolts, no anchor.
FA Mike Klein "Lucky" Jul 21, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
So Jeff, I wonder what you are getting at with the one star rating? Jan 6, 2009