Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Twyman
Page Views: 816 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ferris Kilpatrick on Feb 10, 2016
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Castle in the Sky is a two pitch route that starts on Liposuction and traverses left across the Sex Cave headwall.

Pitch 1: 5.11+, 11 bolts. Start on Liposuction. Put a long sling on Lipo's 4th bolt (or skip) and then traverse left across Donkey Lady's 5th and Elephant Man's 6th bolt. The first set of anchors are under the small oak tree, on the large white stalactite.

Pitch 2: 5.12b, 9 bolts. Continue climbing left over the lip of Sex Cave, traversing across the wave-shaped headwall, crossing over 38 Special. Keep traversing left to end at a second set of anchors near the Sex Canyon routes.