Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Duane Raleigh, Jack Mileski
Page Views: 9,189 total · 56/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 6, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Start out on the big hanging blob with the crack jug at the back. You can climb the first bit either feet or head first depending on your preference. Once you reach the hanging rib that Lipo climbs you are able to get your feet lower than you hands. Traverse across this under the roof to difficult moves getting to the 4th bolt. Turn the lip here (Roman Orgy continues further and Donkey Lady exits earlier)and make a couple of difficult moves onto the face, this is probably the crux. Trundle easily up the face to the roof. Make some big moves to get into a horizontal over the roof then scrunchy moves to turn the lip. This route offers up a plethora of toe hooking and knee barring jesery through the roof and getting onto the face.

Apparently this route used to feature a no hands rest stemming off of a big stalagtight just before the crux at the lip which would make the crux bit seem easier. Though there still is a kneebar to rest on and if you are better than me at using them (which would be most folks out there) it is still a pretty good rest.

Protection

4 fixed draws then 3 bolts and a fixed chain draw to lower off of, no anchors.

Location
This is the line of fixed draws under the roof that Lipo traverses the lip of.

Photos