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Routes in Sex Cave

.50 Cal S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
38 Special S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bariatric V2 5+
Body Wax S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Castle in the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Donkey Lady S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elephant Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Head S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liposuction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Strikes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Roman Orgy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spider Grind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zen and The Art of Stick Clipping S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Cardosa, Tom and Chris Suler
Page Views: 2,047 total, 18/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Spider Grind traverses the lip of a roof just before the entrance to Sex Cave. Climb straight up about 10 feet, clip the first bolt, and start traversing. Traverse left through several bolts, moving quickly so you don't pump out on the jug-fest, and noting the utility of a good heel hook. At traverse's end, climb straight up to anchor.

Fun and pumpy as hell.

Location

Spider Grind is the second route on the right as you come down into the canyon form the parking. It is just before you get to Sex Cave.

Protection

Quickdraws

Photos

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Kyle Bauer
  5.11b
Kyle Bauer  
  5.11b
No moves are exceptionally hard, but the pump builds due to bad feet making this a pretty difficult, albeit short climb. Clipping the third bold is probably the crux, but if you have great endurance you shouldn't have any problems. May 23, 2013
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
It really is more of an arm hauling drag than a pebble pinching delicatefest. Different people are better at different climbs.....Hideous hike from the parking lot to get this sucker tho!!!!! Jun 30, 2008
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
 
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
 
The guidebook says 5.11. Although it's been over 8 years since I climbed this, I felt it was more like a .10. Nevertheless, I defer to the guidebook and consensus. Rating has been changed. Jun 30, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Doesn't the guidebook call this one 11b? I haven't climbed it, so I don't know how it feels. Jun 30, 2008