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Routes in House of Pain

Angular Momentum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bastards in the Brothel S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catharsis Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
House of Pain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
House of Youth S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irreverent Youth S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Jade S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lord of the Dance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rain Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spanish Fly S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stranglehold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Velcro Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Russell Rand
Page Views: 2,458 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic Reimers route where sending comes down to a single redpoint crux at the last bolt. This climb starts on the same boulder as does stranglehold and traverses left on some suspicious pockets to the first bolt. The climbing eases off until the rusty pin. This section involves clinching an open handed pinch with your left and crimping hard on a half pad crimp with your right and bumping with your right to a jug. Don't fall at this point because the anchors are near.

Location

Left of Stranglehold and to the right of Lord of the Dance.

Protection

3 bolts, the first stick clipped and a rusty old pin

Photos

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Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
Killer opening sequence: Hand heel match, cross right hand to pocket, then left hand out to edge; cut feet and swing through to ramp. Left hand to tufa undercling then big move RH to a pocket. Good times, looking forward to a rp burn next week :P Apr 22, 2018

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