Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Russell Rand
Page Views: 2,599 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fantastic Reimers route where sending comes down to a single redpoint crux at the last bolt. This climb starts on the same boulder as does stranglehold and traverses left on some suspicious pockets to the first bolt. The climbing eases off until the rusty pin. This section involves clinching an open handed pinch with your left and crimping hard on a half pad crimp with your right and bumping with your right to a jug. Don't fall at this point because the anchors are near.

Location

Left of Stranglehold and to the right of Lord of the Dance.

Protection

3 bolts, the first stick clipped and a rusty old pin

Photos

- No Photos -
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
Killer opening sequence: Hand heel match, cross right hand to pocket, then left hand out to edge; cut feet and swing through to ramp. Left hand to tufa undercling then big move RH to a pocket. Good times, looking forward to a rp burn next week :P Apr 22, 2018