Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Hueco Tanks

East Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 100 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 100
East Spur 0 / 1 / 0 / 68 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 68
North Mountain 24 / 16 / 4 / 243 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 283
West Mountain 1 / 3 / 0 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38

Description

The best bouldering in the world, Hueco is amazing, but you gotta play the game to get in. Must call Texas State Parks (512)389-8900 to make reservations for North Mountain (be sure to write down your confirmation #s as they tend to lose them). The Hueco Rock Ranch (915-856-7181) no longer offers guiding services but does offer excellent lodging and camping options.

Best time of year to visit is November through March. It gets windy through the end of March and beginning of April. After mid-April, it's hot as sin. The rock is amazing, bullet hard and sharp on the digits.

Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guidebook from Wolverine Publishing is the best resource for routes. It is very extensive, has great directions and pictures.

This online guide will focus on North Mountain, since in the other areas you'll have a guide and other people who can point out the problems.
Some areas require a guide. Details

Getting There

Get to El Paso then take HWY 62/180 (aka Montana Rd) east until you pass all the junk yards. When you see the ufo shaped white building turn left and go to the end of the road.

Hueco Rock Ranch

The Hueco Rock Ranch offers climbers a friendly place to stay while spending time at Hueco Tanks. Camp or rent a room/bunk. Showers, communal hang out area, and good company around the fire are included. Easy access to climbing and no hassle. Join the American Alpine Club and save 30%. Open November┬ľApril.

Book Reservations

489 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hueco Tanks Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hueco Tanks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Hueco Tanks »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Dylan Houser
Boulder, Colorado
Dylan Houser   Boulder, Colorado
What's happenin?!

I'll be making my way down to Texas December 19th by van and was hoping to stop at Hueco for a day or two of climbing. I've never been, but I hear it is THE shit when it comes to bouldering. I've got about 4 years of climbing experience, lead low .12's, onsight mid .11's but don't have many boulder problems under my belt. If anyone is going to be in that area around December 19th-20th, I would love to meet up or tag along and get a couple sends in before heading to Austin.

Happy sending,
Dylan
Boulder Adventure Lodge
dylanhouser1@gmail.com Sep 28, 2017
I'm headed out to Hueco this week, and I'm looking to rent a crash pad. I've been assured there would be groups around who wouldn't mind having someone jump in with them, but I'd hate to crash a party. I'm also wondering if I need a guide and/or guidebook or if I can just wing it. (only because I know it is a very popular location and I could find people). Feb 19, 2017
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
vimeo.com/156620925 Feb 25, 2016
I'm looking for a ride to hueco tanks March 23rd through March 25.
I have reserved camping and a day pass for each day. I'm at FT Bliss for training and the army will not allow me to rent a car during my four day pass. I'll pay for gas and the camping. Feb 20, 2016
bluelizardclimbingandyoga
bluelizardclimbingandyoga.
bluelizardclimbingandyoga   bluelizardclimbingandyoga.
Hey everyone, we're new commercial guides, so if you either can't get in to North Mountain (only 70 people allowed at a time) or if you want to check out the back-country (East, East Spur, or West require guides), then check us out!

climbing (at) bluelizardclimbingandyoga (dot) com
www.bluelizardclimbingandyoga.com Jul 31, 2015
As of June 2015, this is the list of areas in Hueco Tanks State park & Historic Site that are closed to climbing:

NORTH MOUNTAIN:
Mushroom Boulder (North face)
Nuclear Arms/Blood and Gore
Gold Star Roof
Artist's Opposition (at end-loop area)
Cave Kiva
Pictograph Site 17 (rattlesnake area)
Pictograph Site 16A, A-1
Donkey head (near picnic site 3)
Algerita
Stanage on Holiday
Present Arms (Southwest face)
Chris' Arete (Santiago Cooper inscription)
Pictograph Site N19F
Pictograph Site N19C (at West end of Laguna Prieta)
Roughage (Lunch Rocks area)
Sculpture/Thighburner (Lunch Rocks Area)
Warm-Up Boulder (North restrooms)

EAST MOUNTAIN:
Five Bimbos
Snappy Tom
Bucket Roof
Meine Kleine Buzzbomb

EAST SPUR:
45┬░ Wall
Saint Vitus Dance/That's My Daughter Wall

WEST MOUNTAIN:
Pictograph Site 29 (Cave of the Masks)
Pictograph Site 37AB (Southwest wall of shelter near Animal Acts) Jun 7, 2015
meghan c.
el paso, tx
meghan c.   el paso, tx
Moving to El Paso ...


We're moving to El Paso in a few weeks and are looking for a roommate or two to split a house near the downtown UTEP area, preferably somewhere in the Sunrise Hills area. We = my boyfriend James, myself, and our dog Whittlock. We're laid back 20/30ish and would be very happy to share a house with other climbers.


Peace,
meg
megmay111@gmail.com Dec 20, 2014
Lowell
El Paso, Texas USA
Lowell   El Paso, Texas USA
World famous "Pete's" Re-Opens!

Hueco Tanks Climbing Shop & Campgrounds
6011 Hueco Tanks Rd. 915-244-6792

Old school climbers remember "Pete's" Country Store as one of the most iconic dirtbag campgrounds in American climbing history. Located just outside the park entrance at Hueco Tanks, Texas, the Country Store was where bouldering pioneers stayed during the years that Hueco transformed from a little-known rock pile into one of the world's premier bouldering areas.

Deadpoint Magazine Article

Hueco Campgrounds

RV-TENT CAMPING - CRASH PAD & GEAR RENTALS - GEAR & SUPPLIES - COMMERCIAL GUIDES - WIFI - FULL SERVICE SHOP Dec 5, 2014
Donovan Allen
Subaru
Donovan Allen   Subaru
NOTE: there are NO DOGS allowed on the mountain. Just figured I'd mention that. Kind of unclear on the info section and hueco parks doesn't display that information either. Nov 29, 2014
Does anyone have any experience with dogs at Hueco Tanks. Options of where to keep them due to them not being allowed on North Mountain or the Rock Ranch.

Thanks Oct 2, 2012
Dr. Dre
Manitou Springs, CO
Dr. Dre   Manitou Springs, CO
Am heading to EP for work a few days and would like to check out Heuco. I heard that the park gate closes at 6 pm. Are there any areas one can still access for climbing or bouldering after 6 pm without issues, if one were to park outside the gate? Sep 16, 2012
hey guys,

I have a quick question...

It is my FIRST trip to Hueco, FINALLY!

unfortunately, the only time we have allotted for now, is october 24-28...

Can we still find awesome climbing with the temperature during this time???

Basically, is it still worth it to make the trip??

Thanks,

-G Sep 9, 2012
Nate Moore
On the road
Nate Moore   On the road
I need to get to Hueco from Springfield, MO on the weekend of the 10th of April. I can meet you somewhere other than Springfield if i need to and my dates can change a little as well.

Nate Apr 2, 2010
joshf
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
there is a small mexican grocery on the right of the main road a couple miles out heading out from el paso towards hueco...best tortillas in the world. we subsisted off the damn things for almost a week and bought as many as we could before we headed home...dirt cheap and damn good for a tight budget. Nov 16, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
"Austin is working on it" uh-oh. That is kinda scary.

Here is slide show from our trip in '07. You can see some of the old bolts in the show. It is a fairly large QT Movie, so be patient and let it load. There is like 100 images. You can do a mouseover on the little "i" in the upper right hand corner for captions on each photo. If you put your mouse over the bottom middle, forward, reverse and pause will show up.

here is the link: fishproducts.com/movies/hue… Feb 11, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Russ, thanks for all the great Hueco beta and photos (and the mussy hooks in the Owens too)!

I did ask a park staff member if I could help replace old bolts. The answer was that "Austin is working on it still." It being some kind of policy.

I had thoughts of the old Drilling Moon methods too, but it might get climbing banned. The scope of what really needs doing is too huge.

Sorry to all for hogging up so much page space with a lengthy condition report. Looking forward to a day in the future the conditions are simply "Phat new bolts on one of America's best crags."

Feb 11, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Thanks Ken.

Does anyone know the official bolt replacement policy at Hueco these days? Or do you just wait for a "drillers moon" and make it happen? Feb 11, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
The book: "Hueco Tanks, a climber's and boulderer's guide", by John Sherman, Mike Head, James Crump, and Dave Head, gives this for first ascent information:

"The history of lead climbing at Hueco Tanks can be summed up in one name - Mike Head. Mike ascended over two thirds of the lead climbs in this guide, usually in very bold style. Imagine leading Window Pain or Head Fox with only two bolts apiece as Mike first did. Or free soloing the first ascent of Sea of Holes, before the loose rock had been cleaned off.

Mike placed the majority of retrobolts (sic)in Hueco Tanks, changing his routes from sporty climbs to sportclimbs (sic)."

The history of climbing bolt legalization at Hueco Tanks is found in an article titled: "Retrobolting At Hueco" by Laurel Lacher (Rock & Ice Magazine, #36, March/April 1990). Feb 7, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The Geographic Coordinates provided above are incorrect. Here are some better coordinates, in case someone with Admin privileges wants to update things:

Hueco Tanks: -106.0429 x 31.9169

North Mountain: -106.0445 x 31.9225
East mountain: -106.0391 x 31.9171
East Spur: -106.0372 x 31.9108
West Mountain: -106.0456 x 31.9129

Some N Mtn areas:

110 Proof Roof: -106.0436 x 31.9222
The Grenade: -106.0438 x 31.9221
Indecent Exposure Buttress: -106.0483 x 31.9215
Martini Roof Area (Upper Lost Boulders): -106.0425 x 31.9217
Mushroom Boulder: -106.0487 x 31.9219
The New Meadow: -106.0437 x 31.9232
Sign of the Cross: -106.0433 x 31.9246
Small Potatoes: -106.0433 x 31.9224
Trac II: -106.0456 x 31.9217
Warm Up Boulder: -106.0449 x 31.9260 Feb 12, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Here is a small selection of videos shot at Hueco in the early 90's..... yeah it's dated... but it's FREE! Check them out and you can laugh at my JRat clothes!

fishproducts.com/home_movie… Oct 17, 2007

More About Hueco Tanks

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within Hueco Tanks (428)

Most Popular · Newest