Elevation: 967 ft
GPS: 32.82, -98.027 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 84,191 total · 526/month
Shared By: Ryan Lauck on Sep 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Description

Lake Mineral Wells State Park is one of the closest climbing areas to the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. The climbing area is a small maze of sandstone conglomerate bluffs named Penitentiary Hollow.

Due to the rock quality, most of the area is top-roping and rappelling only, but more recently a few sport bolted sports routes have been established. The area is closed when wet. The walls range from 20 to 40 feet and are mostly face climbs with a few tough classics and plenty of easy to moderate routes. Most routes are in the 5.6 - 5.9 range but there are plenty of 10s and 11s too.

Almost all climbs have solid bolt anchors at the top, but bring plenty of long slings because many are 8 to 10 feet or further from the edge. The tops of all climbs can be reached directly off the path from the parking lot or by an easy scramble.

The best time to go is late fall through spring. Texas summers will leave you stewing in your own sweat before you can even set an anchor. Picnickers and spectators usually outnumber climbers 3 to 1, but plenty of large groups come here on the weekends. I've found that most groups show up early and clear out by 3 or 4, so sleep in late.

Currently you need to pay $7 per person to enter the park (free if you have a Texas State Park pass) and $3 per climber (even if you have a Texas State Park pass). Also, every climber has to sign a waiver in the front office each visit, but the office doesn't open until 8AM even though the park gate is opened at 6AM.

Getting There

Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway is located 4 miles east of Mineral Wells on US Highway 180 or 14 miles west of Weatherford on US Highway 180

100 Park Road 71
Mineral Wells TX 76067
940/328-1171

Detailed directions and a map can be found at:

tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/fin…

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mineral Wells State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4+ 6B+ PG13
 4
Mission Impossible
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
Easy Nose
Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Unnamed sport climb
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 13
Big Offwidth
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Hand Crack
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Pillar hold
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 13
Easy Crack
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Thin Crack
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Racheal's Way
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
PeeWee's
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Keith's Way
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Finger Stinger
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mission Impossible Main Canyon Left
 4
V4+ 6B+ PG13 Boulder
Easy Nose Cave Tower
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Unnamed sport climb Middle Tower
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Big Offwidth Scenic Overlook
 13
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Hand Crack Main Canyon Left
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Pillar hold Middle Tower
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Easy Crack Middle Tower
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 TR
Thin Crack Main Canyon Left
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Racheal's Way Cave Tower
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
PeeWee's Cave Tower
 25
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Keith's Way Big Overhang
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Finger Stinger Main Canyon Left
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
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