Elevation: 967 ft
GPS: 32.82, -98.027 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 100,792 total · 585/month
Shared By: Ryan Lauck on Sep 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Description

Lake Mineral Wells State Park is one of the closest climbing areas to the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. The climbing area is a small maze of sandstone conglomerate bluffs named Penitentiary Hollow.

Due to the rock quality, most of the area is top-roping and rappelling only, but more recently a few sport bolted sports routes have been established. The area is closed when wet. The walls range from 20 to 40 feet and are mostly face climbs with a few tough classics and plenty of easy to moderate routes. Most routes are in the 5.6 - 5.9 range but there are plenty of 10s and 11s too.

Almost all climbs have solid bolt anchors at the top, but bring plenty of long slings because many are 8 to 10 feet or further from the edge. The tops of all climbs can be reached directly off the path from the parking lot or by an easy scramble.

The best time to go is late fall through spring. Texas summers will leave you stewing in your own sweat before you can even set an anchor. Picnickers and spectators usually outnumber climbers 3 to 1, but plenty of large groups come here on the weekends. I've found that most groups show up early and clear out by 3 or 4, so sleep in late.

Currently you need to pay $7 per person to enter the park (free if you have a Texas State Park pass) and $3 per climber (even if you have a Texas State Park pass). Also, every climber has to sign a waiver in the front office each visit, but the office doesn't open until 8AM even though the park gate is opened at 6AM.

Getting There

Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway is located 4 miles east of Mineral Wells on US Highway 180 or 14 miles west of Weatherford on US Highway 180

100 Park Road 71
Mineral Wells TX 76067
940/328-1171

Detailed directions and a map can be found at:

tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/fin…

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mineral Wells State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4+ 6B+ PG13
 4
Mission Impossible
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 15
78: Easy Nose
Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Unnamed sport climb
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
Big Offwidth
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Alaska Crack
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Pillar hold
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Offwidth Lieback
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Connect the Pockets
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 17
Solo Crack
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Racheal's Way
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Thin Crack
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
PeeWee's
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Keith's Way
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Hidden Jewel
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Finger Stinger
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mission Impossible Main Canyon Left
 4
V4+ 6B+ PG13 Boulder
78: Easy Nose Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 15
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Unnamed sport climb Side Canyons &… > Middle Tower
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Big Offwidth Scenic Overlook
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Alaska Crack Main Canyon Left
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Pillar hold Side Canyons &… > Middle Tower
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Offwidth Lieback Refrigerator
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Connect the Pockets Main Canyon Right
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Solo Crack Side Canyons &… > Middle Tower
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 TR
Racheal's Way Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Thin Crack Main Canyon Left
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
PeeWee's Side Canyons &… > Cave Tower
 30
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Keith's Way Big Overhang
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Hidden Jewel Big Overhang
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Finger Stinger Main Canyon Left
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
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