Elevation: 1,218 ft
GPS: 29.702, -101.365 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,664 total · 582/month
Shared By: Graham L on Jan 31, 2017 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, mattm
Access Issue: Tread Lightly. See info: Details

Description

Huge limestone walls (up to 250 feet!) on the remote Pecos River in South West Texas consisting of quality rock. Central Texas climbers began developing this area in the early 1990s and other crags further up river (now defunct). This gorge is sometimes referred to as the Verdon of Texas, but because of the relative remoteness of it, land access issues and lack of enough quality moderate routes, the area never became a well known Texas climbing spot and has now faded into obscurity. Note that because these routes were bolted 20+ years ago, and little if any hardware replacement has been done, climbers should use good judgement before trusting any pro. That being said, the climbing is stellar and the location is stunning. The style of the area tends to be dead vertical to slightly angled slab with some overhanging routes on the harder end of the spectrum. More techy routes and less of the bouldery style typically found in Central Texas. All the crags listed here face North East so they're typically shaded in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Some routes never see sun though. Great camping can be found 1 mile east of the Hwy 90 bridge at seminole canyon state park.

Getting There

Approx. 40 miles West of Del Rio. Take a left just before the Hwy 90 high bridge that crosses the Pecos and follow the road until you reach the parking lot for the boat launch. Walk down the road leading down to the boat launch. When you reach a kiosk on your left, it's time to start a short bush whack uphill to your right towards the cliffs. One of the first walls with bolted lines on it is next to the group of concrete retaining pillars build into the cliff above the boat launch. Once you've reached the face of the cliff, head north towards the bridge to access the remaining crags.

Crags listed from Left to Right (Starting at the bridge and working toward the boat launch):
Gecko Wall, Random Wall, Lawless Wall, Slain Buffalo Ledge, Whiskey Wall, Shaman Wall, Metalogic Wall, Dock Wall.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pecos River Boat Ramp

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
5.7 Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Haute Cuisine
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
5.8 Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
The Real UT is in Tennessee
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
[Redacted]
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Scott Free
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Cowboy Smarts
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Tugboat Granny
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Giddy-Up
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Spike Shabook
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Frosted Flake
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Wrangler Savvy
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Dancing With Too Many Women
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.7 Crack Whiskey Wall
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Haute Cuisine Lawless Wall
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
5.8 Crack Lawless Wall
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Real UT is in Tennessee Lawless Wall
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
[Redacted] Lawless Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Scott Free Lawless Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cowboy Smarts Lawless Wall
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Tugboat Granny Whiskey Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Giddy-Up Lawless Wall
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Spike Shabook Whiskey Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Frosted Flake Whiskey Wall
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wrangler Savvy Lawless Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dancing With Too Many Women Lawless Wall
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pecos River Boat Ramp »

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