Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,867 total · 63/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This classic face climb is one of the more notorious highball problems at Hueco. The excellent moves, stellar rock, and memorable finish make this problem a must do for those solid at the grade. Despite the towering height of this problem, the crux is low, and the landing is excellent, so wait for a crowd, layer the pads thick, and go for it!

Begin matched in the large hueco 4 feet above the ground and 10 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder. The crux is the first three moves, and is quite safe with good pads. Head up and left to an incut diagonal crimp and horizontal sloping crimp just above. Work the feet, then dyno for the obvious pocket/crimp in the middle of the face. From here, 6 or so more moves of V1/V2 crimping lead to a huge jug and easy mantle at the lip. Descend the SE ridge.

Location

8 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder, on the West face.

Protection

Many pads and a good spotter.

Photos