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Routes in The Big Time

Entrance Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eye Gouger V0- 4-
Rack, The V5 6C
See Spot Run V6 7A PG13
Spud Boy V1 5
Woman Of Leisure V1 5
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,237 total, 60/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This classic face climb is one of the more notorious highball problems at Hueco. The excellent moves, stellar rock, and memorable finish make this problem a must do for those solid at the grade. Despite the towering height of this problem, the crux is low, and the landing is excellent, so wait for a crowd, layer the pads thick, and go for it!

Begin matched in the large hueco 4 feet above the ground and 10 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder. The crux is the first three moves, and is quite safe with good pads. Head up and left to an incut diagonal crimp and horizontal sloping crimp just above. Work the feet, then dyno for the obvious pocket/crimp in the middle of the face. From here, 6 or so more moves of V1/V2 crimping lead to a huge jug and easy mantle at the lip. Descend the SE ridge.

Location

8 feet right of the NW arete of the Big Time Boulder, on the West face.

Protection

Many pads and a good spotter.
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
It was one of my life goals to do this problem - which I finally did! was so psyched! Oct 14, 2010
DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
According to Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guide, the FA of this problem was by Bob Murray on top-rope. It was later bouldered out by John Sherman. Aug 29, 2010
Joe Collins  
 
This is easily among the best highball boulder problems in N. America. The high moves are hard, but not desperate, and with well placed pads and spotters the fall is long but safe (I should know). Place your pads carefully because you land a lot farther back than you'd expect. Most people will find these reachy crimp moves up high are more in the V3 range than the V1/2 mentioned in the decription.

Now that the Mushroom Boulder is closed, this problem, Babyface, and Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive are the three must-do North Mountain problems for any visitor to Hueco. Dec 24, 2009