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Routes in South Side
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B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bloody Alternative T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bloody Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dinkus Dog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Long Dog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Weather or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Windwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.30054, -82.79229 |
| FA: | Jeep Gaskin with either John Borstelmann or Jeff Burton, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 17,325 total · 75/month |
| Shared By: | Brie Abram on Oct 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
A vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.
The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.
Location
Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.
Protection
The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Double Camalots from .3 to 2 works great. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.
Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.
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