[Hide Comment] One time I was at the Glass and kept finding shiny bail gear with a particular marking- black electrical tape. At the belay 'brow on Dinkus Dog-a keyhole slot a couple feet wide that would take just about any nut on the rack in bomber fashion- the bailers had apparently rapped off a small TCU, crammed over in the pinched-off left corner of the eyebrow. It looked like an A3 placement at best. Next to this, of course, was the kind of no-brainer slot at which any gumby with half a brain could merely wave a biner full of nuts and enjoy a trucker belay off the half-dozen stoppers trapped behind the lip.

Anyhow, the route is among the best around and if it's in your range, you should give it a go. Maybe I'm just a chickenshit but I wandered all over the place on the first pitch and recall wishing I had double ropes. Oct 18, 2007

[Hide Comment] I jumped on this one yesterday for a nice long weekend finishing route. It is definitely my favorite eyebrow route I've climbed on the glass, fun moves the whole way and well protected once you've spent some time plugging eyebrows. I also found the route to be pretty straight forward, a single rope and 2 foot runners posed no rope drag problem (though doubles will save you from having to drag a trailer up for the rappel). The only unpleasant spot was due to my screwing up and making the first belay in a horizontal about 7 feet to the right of where I came up the first pitch. That resulted in a hanging belay that I could have done without, especially after discovering that if I'd pushed it another 5 feet, I would have found the perfect eyebrow that would eat nuts, tri-cams, and cams and allowed a perfectly comfortable stance.

I guess my overall point is that this is an excellent route, poses no serious falling danger, and the eyebrow 4 feet above the horizontal seam for your first belay will save your back, legs, and toes a lot of grief. May 27, 2008

[Hide Comment] the best way to do dinkus is all in one pitch. most of the smallish gear goes in over the first 50 or so feet and medium gear goes in over the last 70. you'll easily make the double bolt anchors but a second 60m rope is necessary for the rap. a very pleasant outing. Aug 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] Great slab/face route! Agree with Jeep that doing it one pitch is the best way -- makes for one long cool stretch of climbing.

Since I only had one rope today I figured I'd try to get down with just that and it worked out fine with some shenanigans. 3 short and rightward traversing raps, with the last rap being from the anchors on Mettle Detector (just right of Fat Dog).

However, it looked easier to simply do 2 raps using the tree half way down and left from the top. But I can't say for sure since I didn't actually do it. Edit (2/19) You cannot make the rap to this tree with one 60 m rope. Jan 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] I was actually on the first ascent of this route with Jeep Gaskin years ago, not Jeff Burton. But it was Jeep's vision and skills that made the route; I was his belayer and encouragement! Jan 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] So I climbed Dinkus Dog on 09-03-16. The North Carolina guidebook gives the 1st pitch a grade of 5.10a and Mountain Project gives the pitch a 5.10-. I do not know if it is height dependent or I am just not used to this style of climbing, but I would rate the 1st pitch at a solid 5.10b with two distinct cruxes, very sustained. The second pitch was not as stout and probably should be rated at 5.10a or even 5.10. Did not find anywhere on the 2nd pitch that was truly run out. The NC guidebook rates the 2nd pitch at 5.10b. Overall the climb was amazing, just questioning the grade of 5.10-. Sep 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] What's the difference between 10- and 10a? Honestly I am asking because it's never been clear to me. Dec 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] I consider “-“, no letter or sign, and “+” less precise, and there have been times I think they are more appropriate than the inaccurately precise a-d scale. Climbs that are height dependent will often get a - or + from me rather than a letter. 5.10- could mean anything from 5.9 to 5.10b to me. How hard a climb is depends on style, body type, temperature, humidity, and all kinds of stuff that sometimes makes me feel the a-d scale is dumb. Someone might argue that this climb is 5.10a rather than 5.10b, but they are less likely to argue that it’s not 5.10- Dec 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] Probably one of the best routes I have had the opportunity to lead at Looking Glass. The gear is mega bomber with placements at like every 10 feet. The falls are clean. This has some of the best edging at the Glass with big moves on both crimps and eyebrows! Dec 9, 2019

[Hide Comment] "makes me feel the a-d scale is dumb."
I agree. Trad lines are +/- and the a,b,c,d thing should be used for sport climbing. Jan 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] can someone please explain to me what an eyebrow is? Jun 5, 2020

[Hide Comment] This is a spectacular climb. Very sustained, at the grade. The features are amazing, and the hanging belay halfway up adds to the experience. The first move onto the face proper was one crux for me and the rest of the pitch to the hanging belay is sustained at 5.10. There are a few good spots to belay from, take your pick. The moves off the belay are tough and it stays hard, climbing up then traversing left and then up to a bulge that is probably 5.10b and is the pitch 2 crux. Then It eases off to 5.9 but the gear gets sparse up to the ledge. The part that makes this such a great climb is the moves and holds were always there. An amazing sequence of features. I imagine this much, much, harder if is is damp or wet. Oct 10, 2020

[Hide Comment] Pack extra cams, extra underwear, and do it in one pitch. Some of the best technical slab climbing I've done, super old school style. Wish I had an brought up an extra orange TCU. Dec 6, 2020

[Hide Comment] It's real good. Get on it. Just past the big horizontal with the lip is a great spot for the p1 belay. Just the right amount of fear! Dec 31, 2021

[Hide Comment] A bit of extra routefinding beta: The route follows the blackish water stain that envelops the right corner of the mini roof at the start, and follows that streak pretty much all the way to until you get to anchors at the end of p2. The final anchors are on the ledge to the left of the water groove, don't miss them tunnel visioning straight through the groove.

Gear beta: Wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself, but the gear truly is really good with two exceptions: the gear's a bit thin on the first "crux" low down on pitch 1, and the runout at the top (maybe 30ft?) is real. Definitely substantially easier climbing in that upper runout as advertised, but not "easy" (maybe 5.8ish or 9ish? dunno).

I did it all in one giant pitch with a 70m rope, doubles of finger sizes and triples in .75-2 plus a dozenish 2 ft alpine draws, and I think I'd take the exact same rack if I did it again. One nice thing is you have a lot of choices of sizes in a lot of the eyebrows, so you have a surprising amount of room for error with choice of gear. I was definitely approaching the end of my rope by the anchors with my 70m rope, don't think I would try that with a 60m. A second rope is required to get down. Jan 30, 2023

[Hide Comment] Fantastic slab/close to vert climbing! We did the route in one pitch which made for some adventurous climbing! Rope drag was definitely there pulling up high. I think it's worth noting that, in my opinion, the route doesn't get all that much easier up high in the runout section (close to a 30ft runout). The angle does back off but you trade eyebrows and positive crimps for glassy hands and feet--so just be ready for that.

All in all, amazing climb with a little bit of spice up high! Do it! Oct 9, 2023