Mort > Comments

Oct 26, 2024 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Nappy Dugout Cramps 5.11b ● Really enjoyed this new addition. Thanks, Stevie! Now that it has chalk on it, I can't imagine it's harder… View Comment
Oct 13, 2024 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Ice Cave Walls > Upper Ice Caves (Feli… Butte Nougat 5.11a ● 12 bolts, not 10 like the guidebook says. Easily 11b. View Comment
Sep 12, 2024 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Box Canyon > 2nd Arch Wall Choss Rocket 5.12a ● Pretty clean, super fun movement. Jugs to tricky powerful sequences. View Comment
Sep 10, 2024 Southwest Utah > Brian Head > Overlook > High Rise Area The Crucible 5.13a ● Funny how people call this their fastest 13a or easy for the grade but call it 13a anyway. If it's 13a, it'… View Comment
Sep 10, 2024 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall Rout @ 66 (sic) 5.12a ● Gave it two stars, but it will clean up to be really good. Pretty sure it's 20 bolts exactly. A long draw… View Comment
Aug 28, 2024 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Box Canyon > Gravity Well Prosthetic Conscience 5.11d R ● As Eric wrote, 12a if you're short. At 5'7" I had to come up with some subtle and creative beta to get ove… View Comment
Aug 24, 2024 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Box Canyon > EFS Wall Michael Fitzpatrick 5.10a ● I posted this on 8/24/24 based on an ascent a few years ago: Extension - 11a? Bit dirty when we did it and… View Comment
Jun 26, 2022 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Early Bird Crag Sunshine on My Shoulder 5.11b ● Dirtiest route out of over 300 I've climbed at Maple. A huge hold exploded, I fell, belayer nearly hit. T… View Comment
Jun 29, 2021 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Sapper Cave The Sapper Cave \| 2096 5.10d ● Did a hold break recently? I used to do this often when it felt like 10c. Yesterday it felt like 5.11. T… View Comment
Jun 29, 2021 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Kubrick's Redmond Barry 5.10b ● The extension felt solid 5.11 to me and several friends. View Comment
May 15, 2021 Northern Arizona > Arizona Strip > Lime Kiln Canyon > Grail > S Wall Top Shelf 5.12b ● The rock and moves aren't as good on the extension. It goes up a dihedral with the holds on the left (usua… View Comment
Oct 11, 2020 San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance… Self-flagellation 5.11c ● Why the name change? It's a Rolling Stones song that has nothing to do with race. If you are worried abou… View Comment
Aug 4, 2020 San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon Slabbo 5.11d ● I think this route is out of order. It is between the Unknown Ramp (5.6/5.7) and the Unknown 10a. It actu… View Comment
May 27, 2020 El Rito > Little River Wall > Slope City (a.k.a. Pi… Slopey Seconds 5.11c/d ● I climbed this yesterday and ripped off two large handholds at the crux. Luckily I fell on that bolt and n… View Comment
May 5, 2020 San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon Apes in Estrus 5.10a/b ● The first bolt pulled out recently. View Comment
May 5, 2020 San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon Shady Lady 5.10c ● The second bolt is now worse than just a spinner, it sticks out a 1/2" or more. View Comment
Mar 19, 2019 El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall Pirates of the Carabiner 5.10a ● I was ticking the new routes with no break in between and the humidity was high, and I went straight over t… View Comment
Mar 19, 2019 El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Big Pine Wall Squeeze My Cobbles 5.11a/b ● Excellent addition! Thanks Jason! View Comment
Aug 16, 2018 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Box Canyon > Jehovah Wall Jesus Freak 5.12d ● I've climbed over 300 routes at Maple and this one is probably the best I've done. The movement and positi… View Comment
Aug 5, 2018 San Luis Valley > English Valley Unnamed 5.11- ● Matt wanted this to be a warm-up, but the holds kept falling off as he cleaned it. Definitely solid 5.11 wi… View Comment
Jul 9, 2018 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall The Attribute 5.12- ● This route seems pretty darn clean now. Better than some of the other routes at Wiper. A whole group of u… View Comment
Jun 28, 2018 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > Cragganmore Clyniesh 5.12c ● Really cleaning up. Surprisingly fun moves. Maybe more fun than some of the classics on this wall. View Comment
Jun 18, 2018 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Box Canyon > Arch Cobble in the Sky 5.12c ● Something must have broken, making the second crux much, much easier. It felt V4/5 in 2015 and now it's ab… View Comment
Aug 25, 2017 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Hourglass Canyon > W (Left Side) Spoonin' 5.10c ● Very cool holds and moves, just a bit loose and dirty. View Comment
Jun 22, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Pictograph Wall Dry Ice 5.11b ● Felt way harder than Streak and Knezek's Call!! View Comment
Jun 22, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall The Hitchhiker 5.11c ● I love enduro routes and this wall in particular. Did most of the routes here and thought the grades were… View Comment
Jun 18, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall The Hitchhiker 5.11c ● And my 70m did not reach yesterday. Lower twice or be prepared to downclimb. I did from the 3rd bolt, but… View Comment
Jun 18, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Maple Corridor > W Wall EIS 5.10b/c ● I'm guessing something broke. In fact, that's why I'm looking at this route right now. My fiance and her… View Comment
Jun 15, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Willy Wall Willy on a Stick 5.11a ● Anyone know anything about the route to the right of the black streak with shiny new bolts? View Comment
Jun 10, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall Whiskey on the Southbound 5.12a ● Interesting that one guide calls it 12b, the other mentions the "very hard crux", and here it's called boul… View Comment
Jun 10, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Windshield Wiper Wall The Windshield Wiper 5.12a ● I bet this will clean up nicely with more traffic. Fun moves. View Comment
Jun 10, 2015 Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Engagement Alcove Urethra Franklin 5.11a ● There are now two routes between 80/20 and Mylanta that share an anchor. Which one is this, left or right?… View Comment
Oct 19, 2014 Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > E Cactus Cliff Far Ri… Utter To A Scream 5.12a ● Clean fall, I took it. But not so easy to hang or clip the draw in the middle of the crux, above the bulge… View Comment
Oct 12, 2014 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Ice Cave Walls > Middle Ice Caves (CHU… Crud aka Unknown near Chud 5.12b ● Super bouldery, not my style. Not 12b in my world! View Comment
Aug 13, 2014 Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Meat Wall Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route 5.11b/c ● Both comments here say 2nd try. Same here and for my partner... and several others I've talked to. No way… View Comment
Mar 29, 2014 Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall Namaste 5.11d ● Just got back from climbing Namaste. It is NOT 140'. My 70m rope worked; same for the group before me. I… View Comment

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