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Areas in Box Canyon

2nd Arch Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Ammo Dump Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Arch, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Cobble Roof 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
EFS Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Entrance Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gravity Well, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Hole, The 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Impact Zone Wall, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Jehovah Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Turbulence Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Zone, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Access Issue: Box Canyon is privately owned. Details

Description

Probably the most popular location in Maple Canyon, the Box Canyon area is located in a very narrow canyon whose mouth is located just north of the road (on the right side when driving upcanyon). Because of its narrowness and its north-south direction Box Canyon is cool and shady almost all day.

There are a handful of moderate routes here (particularly at EFS Wall) but the majority of the dozens of bolted routes are 5.12 or harder.

Note that Box Canyon is privately owned and as such access is at the pleasure of the landowners. Do your part to preserve access and be a good citizen: no dogs, be considerate of others (especially hikers), and definitely leave Box Canyon and head for the campground toilets when nature beckons.

Getting There

Drive .8 miles from the mouth of Maple Canyon where the paved road turns to dirt road and park at one of several pullouts. The canyon mouth is dark and obvious from the road.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
Downloader
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 82
Devil's Plaything
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Maple Pickles
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 64
Pasties and a G-String
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 91
Watermelon Sugar
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
In the Meantime
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Towing Jehovah
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Brown Hole
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Point blank
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 48
Cobble in the Sky
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Midwife Crisis
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Freaking Jesus
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
Jesus Freak
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Deceptacon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Loser
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Downloader Ammo Dump Wall
 56
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Devil's Plaything Ammo Dump Wall
 82
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Maple Pickles Ammo Dump Wall
 43
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pasties and a G-String Impact Zone Wall
 64
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Watermelon Sugar Ammo Dump Wall
 91
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
In the Meantime Ammo Dump Wall
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Towing Jehovah Jehovah Wall
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Brown Hole EFS Wall
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Point blank Ammo Dump Wall
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cobble in the Sky Arch
 48
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Midwife Crisis Jehovah Wall
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Freaking Jesus Jehovah Wall
 6
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Jesus Freak Jehovah Wall
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Deceptacon Jehovah Wall
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Loser Cobble Roof
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Box Canyon »

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Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I've recently seen a fairly large number of fixed draws in the Box. Not sure, given the status as private land, how cool this is as its a visual impact for sure.

Does anyone know if the land owner is ok with fixed draws? If not, maybe they should be removed?

Hate to see access in this neat area gone. Feb 15, 2011
Corona  
Good point. The (ostensibly climber-friendly) landowners at Roadside Crag at the Red River Gorge claimed that the unapproved addition of fixed hardware was one of the biggest reason for their decision to close the Red's most popular crag. Worth considering. Sep 1, 2011
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
I'm also concerned about the amount of dog crap that develops in this canyon during the summer. It's all washed out now due to some of the recent heavy rains, but for a while in the middle of the summer, that place was starting to get pretty gross. I think most climbers are pretty good about leaving the canyon to tend to business, but all these little things can lead to a potential closure if we are not careful. The Box is a great place to climb, it would be a shame to lose it. Sep 12, 2011
I took some pictures of a couple with their dog from Oregon during this summer in Box Canyon and forgot to get an email, if this was you shoot me your email so I can send you your pictures Oct 13, 2014
Maple Canyon Alert! The land at the mouth of Maple Canyon as well as along the road before the Forest Service sign is private property. The landowners have asked that if you want to park or stay the night on their property that you give a donation of $8/night and $3/day. There are donation boxes. You can also call to reserve a spot on the private property at 435.851.1486. Please respect this private property and use the restrooms in the upper canyon for now. Note that car camping in day use parking spots is NOT allowed in the upper canyon on the Forest Service property. Jun 8, 2015
I found some climbing gear when i was hiking Box canyon yesterday. Email me at madalinekeller@gmail.com tell me what you are missing and hopeful i can get that back to you. Jul 14, 2017

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