Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 4,470 total · 31/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on Jul 15, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Box Canyon is privately owned. Details

Description

Clip two easy bolts and then climb pinches, sidepulls, and pockets to a series of chalked holds below the 5th bolt. Throw up and right to a horn right below the 5th bolt and then continue on decent stuff to the 6th bolt. The draw hangs down below onto this horn which is a bit annoying. There is also a crimp you can hit left of the horn. If you move right after the next bolt and clip the chains of Downloader it is 5.11c. You probably want a long draw on the 6th bolt if you move right. And it is a reachy move to clip the chains...be careful once you pull up rope to clip. Much easier once you place two draws on the chains to clip.

For the full climb move left after the 6th bolt into a more delicate, crimpy face and finish another 30-40 feet higher.

Location

Third bolt line left of the right side of the wall.

Protection

6 bolts for the 5.11c and maybe +/10 bolts for the 12a.

Photos

BrianWS
  5.12a
BrianWS  
  5.12a
A bit of loose rock near the crux section. Felt much harder than other climbs of the same grade in Maple, but similiar to 12a climbs in most other crags. Aug 2, 2012
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11d
Old anchors on 5.30.2014
May 30, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
This route description seems to contradict the .12a or .11c rating given to this climb in the original guidebook to Maple Canyon. My understanding is that the route is .12a if you climb directly over the lip of the overhang with bolts in your face. The climb is .11c If you move right on big holds (towards the anchor on Downloader) and then pull the lip. Guidebook description reads "Right of the bolts is .11c. the direct route is .12a". I climbed this route in September 2006, sending it on the 1st try hanging draws, by going the easier way. I had hung on the route the year before. I thought that even going the easier way, this climb could be rated .11d. Perhaps 11d/12a would be a good rating. I remember that the rock quality was very solid with some amazing jugs up the overhang. Dec 28, 2018