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Routes in The High Rise Area

Birth Canal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucible, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One-finger Pockets Suck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orifice T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Please Leave Me Blood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Virtual Ecstasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Todd Goss & H. Christenson, 1997
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: AJ Dexter on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Super sharp crimpers and monos all the way up.

Protection

Five bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
Was hoping for a bit more description. I didn't find this route particularly sharp and there was only one mono that I didn't have to use. I didn't do it, though, as I couldn't figure out the move past the break (at least in a combo that would let me finish the route). Did the "crux" above (according to a local) and went to the top. There is a rock scar where I was shut down. Wondering if something is missing because even something tiny at the scar would make it significantly easier.

To be more specific, moving off a jug pocket, just above the break, to a small but positive crimp that you make the next clip off of. The span is about 6'. There is a small 2-finger for your right (shallow and sloping) or a tiny crimp way up left (lichen on it so that probably isn't it) and a rock scar right in the middle. You can skip this move by heading out to the arete but I figured that was cheating, for sure.

Got anything? Jun 29, 2009
ZachBradford
  5.13a
ZachBradford  
  5.13a
The 2 good finger pocket out right is a sucker hold. And Yes going out to the right arete is cheating.

This section is the real crux of the route.

Without giving the fun totally away.

Stay left use underclings to gain a super sharp crimper. This sets you up for a very technical cross to gain a good crimp and mono.

I'm not sure what "local" you talked to but they didn't know what they were talking about. Jul 17, 2010

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