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Routes in Willy Wall

Alone and Second Best S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camel Power S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clumsy Lover S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goggle I Bee S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life of your Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minor Key S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasure to Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Locks S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown new S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Willy on a Stick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Dan Snyder
Page Views: 340 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Sep 13, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The left of two bolt lines, the other being Pleasure to Burn. Follow low angle rock with jugs up a lichened ramp to the real climbing. The route changes from slab to vertical to slightly overhanging, so the endurance crux comes near the anchors.

We pulled off a few cobbles and talked to others who also did. Wear a helmet and climb gingerly. There isn't much room or footing at the base making it slightly harder for the belayer to dodge cobble bombs.

Location

First two routes as you approach. Leftmost of the pair Willy on a Stick and Pleasure to Burn. The low angled ramp at the beginning has a lot of lichen. These routes sit between a cleft and a black streak.

We lowered with a 70m rope. I cannot verify if a 60m works.

Protection

19 draws total and a helmet (esp. for the belayer). Two chain anchor at the top.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 7/16, this route has cleaned up quite nicely. We encountered nothing loose, although the bottom holds were still a bit sandy here and there. This makes a nice long warm up with practically no approach if you are camped along the road. Jul 17, 2016
R Connors
Salt Lake City, UT
5.11a
R Connors   Salt Lake City, UT
5.11a
I climbed this route over the weekend and also looked at the shiny right-hand route. I couldn't find the start...there only appeared to be chains at the top, plus a line of about 4 or 5 bolts coming down the face. Looks like a great route, but it may still be a work in progress.

A 60-meter rope will not reach! Jun 29, 2015
Mort
  5.11a
Mort  
  5.11a
Anyone know anything about the route to the right of the black streak with shiny new bolts? Jun 15, 2015