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Elevation: 6,989 ft 2,130 m
GPS: 39.70833, -107.69273
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,076 total · 116/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The shady cave of The Nappy Dugout can be a welcome respite from the heat in the rest of the canyon, and it seldom sees any sun at all. This steep area is host to about a dozen routes most being very steep. Difficulty runs the gamut from 5.10c to the Rifle test piece, Lung Fish, at 5.14a. Overall rock quality is quite good and most routes can be done with a 50 meter cord. Route numbering begins from the left with Family Unit as # 1. This route just catches the left edge of the cave.

Getting There Suggest change

The Nappy Dugout has easy access. Park as for the Wasteland. Walk into the Wasteland and pick your way right to the end of the wall. About 100 ft right, and via a trail, is the cave of The Nappy Dugout. A few routes can also be found right of the cave itself and out in the sun.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: The Nappy Dugout Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Nappy Dugout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 230
● Mr. Cranky Pants
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 267
● PMS
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 244
● PMT aka Squawk Box
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
● Ivory Tower
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
● Cramps
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 125
● Geriatric Journey
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
● Family Unit
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 173
● Fossil Family
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 67
● Family Jewels
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
● Family Feud
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
● Drunken Monkey
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 44
● Kingfisher
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
● Fringe Dweller
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
● Should Have Pulled Out
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 6
● Lung Fish
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Mr. Cranky Pants
 230
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● PMS
 267
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● PMT aka Squawk Box
 244
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Ivory Tower
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Cramps
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Geriatric Journey
 125
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Family Unit
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Fossil Family
 173
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Family Jewels
 67
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Family Feud
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Drunken Monkey
 21
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Kingfisher
 44
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Fringe Dweller
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Should Have Pulled Out
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Lung Fish
 6
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Nappy Dugout »

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