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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

The shady cave of The Nappy Dugout can be a welcome respite from the heat in the rest of the canyon, and it seldom sees any sun at all. This steep area is host to about a dozen routes most being very steep. Difficulty runs the gamut from 5.10c to the Rifle test piece, Lung Fish, at 5.14a. Overall rock quality is quite good and most routes can be done with a 50 meter cord. Route numbering begins from the left with Family Unit as # 1. This route just catches the left edge of the cave.

Getting There

The Nappy Dugout has easy access. Park as for the Wasteland. Walk into the Wasteland and pick your way right to the end of the wall. About 100 ft right, and via a trail, is the cave of The Nappy Dugout. A few routes can also be found right of the cave itself and out in the sun.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Nappy Dugout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Congratulations to whoever got away with naming this "The Nappy Dugout." That's been a hiphop term for female genitilia for a long time. It began in the 1973 Funkadelic track "Nappy Dugout." Later incarnations have included Ice Cube's "Givin Up the Nappy Dug Out." The term is used in the Warren Beatty film Bulworth. May 8, 2005

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