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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brad Buhrow, Eric Candee
Page Views: 5,688 total, 32/month
Shared By: chad wolak on Jun 18, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the left side of the Nappy Dugout is Fossil Family. It's recognized by its first three bolts (homemade and shared with Family Unit) and by the right-trending and upward (of course) discontinuous seam that comprises its upper half.

Climb up to the third bolt, then move up and right along the seam for three more clips, passing a rooflet near the sixth bolt, to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR, power-sapping climbing on good holds adds up to a super-fun climb worthy of many stars.

After you send... do the next climber a favor by scrubbing one or two of the seam holds during your victorious lower from the anchors.... Maybe some day we'll be able to touch actual stone in the upper seam of Fossil Family?

Protection

Eight quickdraws (includes the anchor).
Evan Winn
  5.12a
Evan Winn  
  5.12a
Check the in-situ draw on the last bolt. A sharp bit of rock likes to eat thruogh the webbing at the top biner. Draws don't last long on that bolt. There is a "new" one up now and the fall is clean if the draw fails but still be aware.

Other than that, it is an excellent climb, and I highly recommend it, even if you don't consider yourself a 5.12 climber (due to strength or injury). Good holds make it accessible, but the pump and power moves makes it worth the rating. Aug 24, 2009
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
  5.12a
dbyte   Carbondale, CO
  5.12a
I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux. Jun 14, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
Very, very fun route. Well worth doing. Jun 10, 2007
chad wolak  
 
This comment is to supplement the above route description :

Sometime in the fall of 2003 I noticed the first three homemade bolts of this route have been replaced with modern bolts. Also, in-situ lower chains are installed. Jan 23, 2004