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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Till Death Do Us Part S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 162 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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I also seen this route referred to as 12d but it was rated 13a when it was put up, and I don't want to be further accused of sandbagging.

Frizzle Frye is probably the only American Fork style link-up at Rifle, yet ironically it follows a natural weakness (pod-type crack) in the rock and not just an arbitrary set of quickdraws. It basically moves diagonally right across most of the Nappy Dugout, starting left of Fringe Dweller, above which it crosses, before traversing right above the crux of Lungfish to join the top half of Drunk Monkey.

There are two distinct cruxes on this route, one a powerful set up on poor pockets, the other a very funky transition move across the faint Lungfish corner. Same some juice for the end, as the top of Drunk Monkey involves fairly sporty 5.11 climbing and some big reaches.

Cleaning this route is a bitch so you're best off finding some poor slob to second you on it.


10 quickdraws and a strong right shoulder.



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