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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 135 ft
FA: Cory Case and Brandi Horn
Page Views: 737 total · 34/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

Geriatric Journey is an excellent new route in Rifle, and it is not to be missed. It is a long route that requires an 80 meter rope or you must lower twice. Make sure you tie a knot in the end of your rope not matter what length of rope you have.

The route is characterized by long, steep, technical climbing. A hard crux is encountered right off the ground that you can protect by stick clipping the second bolt and is followed with great, sustained climbing that is mostly 5.10 and easy 5.11. There's another mini crux at mid-height that will probably get easier as better beta is discovered and chalk covers the best holds. You can shake out at the top before the final crux, pulling through the bulge to reach the top anchor.

Location [Edit]

It is in between Perfect Gun and Z Man on the right side of the Nappy Dugout in the area of the popular 5.10s such as PMS. Start from the same belay area as Z Man and Mr. Cranky Pants.

Protection [Edit]

20 bolts with an anchor on top and a midway anchor for lowering twice if you don't have a 80 meter rope.

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Thanks for the hard work, Cory and Brandi! This route is a great addition. Super fun and long. I thought the crux was at the start for what it's worth. Aug 15, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I forgot about the crux right off the ground. I'll update the description. Aug 16, 2016
Grindrite  
 
What an odyssey! Long, varied, and fun climbing with a couple of crux sections and exciting finish to the anchors. Great job putting this climb up. Sep 24, 2016
Jamie Collins
Bay Area, CA
  5.11c
Jamie Collins   Bay Area, CA
  5.11c
Really great route! Super long and sustained. Immensely grateful to the FA party for putting it up.

As of 8/23/17, the 15th bolt is very loose. I tightened back down with my fingers, but it was pouring rain at the time, so I didn't have a chance to re-climb the route with my wrench. If anyone has a chance to re-tighten it, thanks! Aug 27, 2017

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