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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Feud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Till Death Do Us Part S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Pont, Tannis Richardson
Page Views: 3,353 total · 16/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 4, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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While not jaw-droppingly stunning from the ground, this is 5.10 limestone face climbing at its best, with consistently incut holds on consistently steep terrain. It's very popular as a morning route, so be ready to stand in line. Two adjacent routes (Ivory Tower and Lee Sheftel's new route [name?]) at similar grades and a nice elevated view of a pretty stretch of river make this a nice hang.

Both of these routes are up and right of the Nappy Dugout (or Shit Cave, as it was known before porta-potties were installed in the Canyon) and start from the top of the dirt cone. PMS is the middle route and starts on easy, ledgy rock to reach a high first bolt behind the tree.

Continue past the bolt into a faint corner which terminates in a steep face. Sustained climbing takes you to an aesthetic finish on hidden holds.


10 quickdraws.


This is an absolutely phenomenal route for the grade. Arguably, the best 10 at Rifle and not to be missed. During the summer, the sun hits the route by 1 or 2, so get there early. Jul 8, 2003
Adri.n Robert
boulder, co
Adri.n Robert   boulder, co
I agree with that.. we got on at 3-4 in the roasting sun; the moves felt a lot harder than they needed to be, but hey I like loose slacklines for that same reason. Jun 5, 2006
Sick line!
Everything is there, but it is really pumpy. The only crux for this climb is clipping the bolts. I failed and took a 20 foot whipper! PMS is a MUST climb! Apr 20, 2007
Evan Winn
Evan Winn  
It climbs so smoothly and consistantly. Good technique is very rewarded as is liiking where you can't see chalk. Aug 24, 2009
Kirstyn Leuner
Norwich, VT
Kirstyn Leuner   Norwich, VT
Yesterday, a large block just above the first bolt and to the left ripped off when my leader gently pulled on it. It was one of the topmost blocks in the chossy, slick shelf system at the bottom of the route. We cleaned off remaining loose chunks and put an "x" on one of them. Be careful in that low section before the good rock starts. Jun 29, 2014

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