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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Hong, 1993
Page Views: 789 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 22, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

It's a good thing we have Matt Samet logging in the hard routes, because it leaves all of the terrific Matt Samet warm-ups for the rest of us, and while Family Unit may only warm up some, for others it's just a fine climb.

Begin on the left most line of bolts in the Nappy Dugout Cave. After 30 feet, you can move right into Fossil Family (12a) or stay left on Family Unit. Some interesting moves, sidesteps, and edge hauling take you the roof. Pulling the roof runs at 12d and comprises a two bolt variation (nice job on Hong's part to let us gumbies off the hook!). Watch you footing above the fourth bolt, since the pro gets a bit spacey but not worth screaming about.

Good stone, excellent climbing, and some mind control are well worth a deuce. The line stays shady nearly all the time.

Protection

Bring ten draws and a rope.

Photos

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D-Storm  
No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock.... Aug 13, 2014
James  
This used to be the same start as Fossil Family and you cut left, and now it has its own start. Is the rating the same? Jun 20, 2014