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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 1,561 total, 20/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Another new addition to Rifle, Mr. Cranky Pants climbs featured, sometimes hard-to-read gray limestone with mostly big holds to a crux where the rock turns to textured orange limestone. The crux seems easiest when staying left instead of going out right via an alternate way. If you go out right, plan on finding a way to delicately traverse back left while above your last bolt. Finish on great stone to the anchor.

Location

This is the first route left of Ivory Tower but starting below Ivory Tower's belay ledge.

Protection

12 bolts and anchor.

Photos

Kaylene Grove
  5.10a
Kaylene Grove  
  5.10a
Not sure who Mr. Cranky Pants is, but it wasn't me while I was on this route! Great flow and fun moves up to a distinct crux 2 bolts from the top. Don't be afraid to step down to the stance and figure it out if need be!

Well-bolted. However, take 13 draws (+ anchors). Either I can't count, or a bolt was added, because the guidebook reads 12 bolts + anchors, but I was short 1 draw. 1st bolt is pretty low, so you may opt to skip it. Aug 16, 2016
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a/b
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a/b
Nice route; hard for 10a. There are two distinct cruxes on the top half of the route. Aug 3, 2015
D-Storm
  5.10a
D-Storm  
  5.10a
Climbed this again Sept. 9, 2012, and it has cleaned up really well. There are still two wiggly holds near the top. One is a tempting jug that is easily avoided and the other one is a hollow flake that must be used to reach the anchor. With careful technique, it is possible to avoid pulling OUT on the flake as you climb above it. Regarding the "Z-clip bolt ladder," maybe some bolts were removed, as they were well spaced on Sept. 9 — closer together at the beginning and farther apart higher up. A good route for the grade at RMP; but maybe not the best for new 5.10 leaders due to the funky climbing at the end. Sep 11, 2012