Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 1,828 total · 20/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Description

Another new addition to Rifle, Mr. Cranky Pants climbs featured, sometimes hard-to-read gray limestone with mostly big holds to a crux where the rock turns to textured orange limestone. The crux seems easiest when staying left instead of going out right via an alternate way. If you go out right, plan on finding a way to delicately traverse back left while above your last bolt. Finish on great stone to the anchor.

Location

This is the first route left of Ivory Tower but starting below Ivory Tower's belay ledge.

Protection

12 bolts and anchor.

Photos

D-Storm
  5.10a
D-Storm  
  5.10a
Climbed this again Sept. 9, 2012, and it has cleaned up really well. There are still two wiggly holds near the top. One is a tempting jug that is easily avoided and the other one is a hollow flake that must be used to reach the anchor. With careful technique, it is possible to avoid pulling OUT on the flake as you climb above it. Regarding the "Z-clip bolt ladder," maybe some bolts were removed, as they were well spaced on Sept. 9 — closer together at the beginning and farther apart higher up. A good route for the grade at RMP; but maybe not the best for new 5.10 leaders due to the funky climbing at the end. Sep 11, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a/b
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a/b
Nice route; hard for 10a. There are two distinct cruxes on the top half of the route. Aug 3, 2015
Kaylene Grove
  5.10a
Kaylene Grove  
  5.10a
Not sure who Mr. Cranky Pants is, but it wasn't me while I was on this route! Great flow and fun moves up to a distinct crux 2 bolts from the top. Don't be afraid to step down to the stance and figure it out if need be!

Well-bolted. However, take 13 draws (+ anchors). Either I can't count, or a bolt was added, because the guidebook reads 12 bolts + anchors, but I was short 1 draw. 1st bolt is pretty low, so you may opt to skip it. Aug 16, 2016