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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Wright and Bernard Plessier
Page Views: 1,860 total, 10/month
Shared By: chad wolak on Apr 14, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climbing commences here following nine clips up a steep gray-streaked "slab" that is the Ivory Tower and terminates atop another pedestal with just enough room for you (and perhaps one small farm animal) to stand, relax, enjoy the view and drop your rope into the lowering station.

This stellar climb has two places where chalked holds lead you leftward away from the bolts, then bring you back right into the bolt line. It seems the first of the two wanderings was unnecessary as a brief, but perhaps cryptic, upward sequence of tugs did not seem overly difficult and made wandering unnecessary. However, the uppermost wander seems necessary to keep the grade 11a. Have fun and wander or be direct - whichever your style!

Lcoation

From a large parking area nearest the southernmost sign for the Ice Caves (this parking area is on the west side of the road, just north of a small bridge, and is marked by one of several Jackie's Portable toilets conveniently located in The Canyon - thank you, Jackie!), hike east for ~15 seconds until you reach the Nappy Dugout, then head south for ~30 seconds until the trail leads up a small (but still too large) hill. On the wall atop this hill are the two Rifle classics, PMS and PMT. Approximately 20 feet north of these climbs is a large grayish to ivory colored pedestal with a top big enough to comfortably sit you, a belayer, and a couple medium-size farm animals.

Protection

9 quickdraws.

Photos

In July of 2013, I replaced the first two 'manky' bolts. The anchor is also new hardware and has been moved approximately 5 feet left to avoid rope dragging over sharp, blocky edges. Thanks to ASCA replacement hardware. Jun 27, 2014
Aeon Aki    
 
Wandering left down low avoids the crux sequence of this route. Much better to climb as directly as possible, until the end where the juggy, right-trending crack seems necessary. Classic route! May 28, 2007
Gotta be 11b+. This line is sick, but is deceiving. Work the moves after the first small roof, then there are some really touchy crimps. Once you have it dialed, then it goes, but take your time!
Really fun, and awesome view from the top :) Apr 20, 2007
Josh Beck  
 
First two bolts are a bit sketchy but the climbing is moderate. Anchors are unnecessarily placed far enough to the right to allow your rope to saw on the huge blocky ledge. Going straight up at crux makes the route harder than 11a probably. Higher it is almost mandatory to go way left. All told, it's great rock with a mediocre route that features less than stellar bolt and anchor locations. Jul 17, 2006