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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Feud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Till Death Do Us Part S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Scott Leonard
Page Views: 168 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 11, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route doesn't seem to get done much, maybe because it's more bouldery than the usual Rifle fare or maybe because it's stinking hard for the grade.

This is one route left of Lungfish and starts on the faint "Never Believe"-like pillar to the right of the big gash. A bouldery, cruxy start leads to powerful climbing and a final boulder problem on the overhanging blue rock. Though it may look tempting (and easy) to step left into the big pod, it won't do you much good, as it's desperate getting over there.

Better just to stay on route and move left into the pod from the jutting cube on the right. A brief hand-jam rest at the top of the pod lets you bleed it back for the redpoint crux.

Protection

8-10 quickdraws.

Photos

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And when he says brief hand-jam, he means full recovery hands-free inverted foot jam! One of my favs at Rifle. Feb 1, 2002

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