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Routes in The Nappy Dugout

Drunken Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Families Are Forever S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Unit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fossil Family S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fringe Dweller S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Frizzle Frye S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Geriatric Journey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivory Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kingfisher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lung Fish S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. Cranky Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PMS S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PMT S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Gun, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Z Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Frye, 1994
Page Views: 1,121 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 8, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Drunken Monkey takes the right-angling crack on the right side of the cave and continues over a small roof/bulge at 40 ft. This route reminds me of the limestone routes in Slovenia where once you get up on your feet the bolt spacing doubles or triples. To get things going, power out the crack for a dozen feet and at the dog-leg jog back left on very sizable jugs. This sector looks like it should be easy, but it is in fact very pumpy, and this is not a friendly Indian Creek crack - it's very sharp. As the route straightens out, you hit the crux roof/bulge with its very bouldery and crimpy crux. I pull this on the right hand, and even so this move felt solid 12c to my puny finger strength and it has always been worth a dog or two. This is very steep with a micro crimp that you will use if you will proceed. Once over the bulge, get established on your feet and shake out the hands. What follows is probably never harder than 5.11 and it is reasonably juggy. However, the pump just mounts because the wall stays gently overhanging right to the anchor. Hang tight. The upper bolts feel a mile apart. If we split stars, I'd go with two and a half here. Good stone, high continuity, and the crux develops early enough that if you slip through a red point is probably in the bag. The big guns may be disappointed by the break in continuity above the bulge. (I knew those California boys were strong)

Protection

Bring half a dozen draws, a rope, and some gonads.

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