Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Cloud, Jeff Webb?
Page Views: 2,733 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Trundles up the clean sheet just left of Drunken Monkey. Not the most inspiring route to look at but the movement and bullet stone make up for what it lacks in visuals.

The first 4 four bolts ( skipping the 3rd ) deposit you at the first of 2 cruxes ( allocate about 10 second for this section ). Chew on your knee in the massive drop knee or huck for good crimps ( skip the 5th bolt ), grab the pinch in a faint corner, fall off ( allocate about 10 seconds for this section also ). Your investment of 20 seconds got you about 20 feet of climbing; get used to it as you will probably repeat this many-a-time.( allocate 1 to 10 days for this section )

If you are lucky enough to sketch through the bottom, pull up into the corner and cop a rest ( allocate 2-3 minutes for this section including resting ) and then tackle the upper crux. Grimp through on good holds with bad feet and try very hard not to fall off, you will not be happy with yourself if you do (allocate about 20 seconds for this section).

Rest under the big roof ( allocate 2 to 15 minutes for this section ), convince yourself that you will not fall off and hike the last .12 section to the anchor.

Total it all up:

1 season of work ( maybe less, maybe more, maybe never ) 15-30 minutes on the point burn 2-3 minutes of actual climbing OR Do it like Sharma and hike it in a day.

Figure if Drunken Monkey and Family Unit get 2 stars this has got to be 3 stars.


11 bolts to chains but you only clip about 9 of em generally skipping the 3rd and 5th bolts


Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
Too late I realized that I botched the FA. What foothold and what crimp were altered? Dec 4, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Seems like this route should be classified as chipped/modified.... and comments from the peanut gallery? Dec 4, 2001
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
don't know about the glued foot since I used some jacked left-foot paste but the crimps at the crux, if modified, never caught my attention and I did become very familar with them. Mostly I noticed the shell fossil in the right crimp, the only one that might have been modified. What exactly was changed, was a obtrusion knocked out etc? Or was the pinch hold, in the faint corner( crux ), changed? Realizing it is Rifle, maybe I never used the altered hold. Anyone have the answers? Dec 4, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hearing that this was manipulated is annoying since I spent a number of sessions on this route believing that, unlike many other 14s at Rifle, this one was both definitely 5.14 and natural. I still want to do it but it is unfortunate that it got the enhancement treatment Dec 4, 2001
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
Skip the left foot, if it is indeed glued on, it goes quite well without it. As for the enhanced crimper, and using what I imagine to be ( ha ha ) the common sequence of hold, I do not believe that any major renovations were performed. Perhaps a sharp point on one of the holds was knocked off, maybe a pebble was knocked out of the back of a crimper maybe a hold I did not use was altered. Whatever was/wasn't done would be very difficult to determine from the evidence at hand, the route itself.

I, like Peter, am tweaked to hear this route has potentially been modified but, taking the glue-foot out of the equation, has it been modified anymore than the vast majority of sport/trad climbs? Not to condone the activity but if Chris Hill had originally "pecked" the crimper would this discussion be taking place? Would we even know about it?

I don't know the answers but I do think that, having not used the glue-foot and lacking any hard evidence regarding the crimp, this route does not warrant the chipped nag-screen according to this sites standards:

"A route that has modified holds, and then climbed free without using those modified holds, will not be classified as modified."

Having just stumbled onto this site a few days ago, I am glad to see that I could contribute to the quagmire :-)

Dan Durland

Dec 5, 2001
Wasn't saying that Chris was envolved with any of the shenanigans, but if you know who is allegedly involved maybe you can ask them what crimper they "pecked" and then future ascents could avoid this hold if they so desired. Dec 5, 2001
On a different note, I just stumbled onto this site a day or two ago and it is good to see a clearinghouse of info, good job. Maybe it sould be climbingclolorado.com since it has expanded to include a large portion of the state and you guys appear to own that URL. Dec 5, 2001
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
charley bentley borrowed my elmer's glue and glued and glued and glued and glued and sniffed and glued and glued and glued and sniffed and that's not true Dec 3, 2003