Elevation: 7,657 ft
GPS: 36.392, -106.196 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 226,566 total · 1,188/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Fun, vertical to overhanging conglomerate matrix of metamorphosed sand and mud with inclusions of smooth, rounded cobbles of all sizes. The cobbles, and the holes they leave when they fall out of the matrix, form excellent holds that allow relatively moderate climbing for such steep rock. Fully overhanging routes can be below 5.11, and anything less than vertical will probably clock in at 5.8 or below. All routes are sport bolted, so you can concentrate on the climbing instead of the protection. Text copied from Gary Clark's online guide.
No toilet paper fairy

Getting There

GOOGLE MAP DRIVING DIRECTIONS FROM HIGHWAY 84: goo.gl/maps/QFZtcTFEYe2mc6xv6

El Rito is located about 50 miles north of Santa Fe (please see a road map to find El Rito). From the east end of the village, turn north on Forest Road 44 (dirt). Drive 3.75 miles from the pavement, and park to the left just after the sign "Cañada del Potrero." Camping is available at several locations up this spur road, which ends in about a half-mile. Now walk across the road to a trail paralleling it headed south. The trail crosses a bridge, then turns south up the sidehill to the crags. (~15 min.)
The primary parking area is relatively small. Please park head-in and save space for other vehicles.

More Beta

Gary Clark created free PDF guides for the El Rito sport and trad climbing areas. Gary has moved away from New Mexico and Jason Halladay has adopted the guide updates. The most recent update is from 2017 but is still quite valuable and helpful for navigating the areas.

Pack Out Your Used Toilet Paper (Leave No Trace ethics)

It is imperative climbers pack out their used toilet paper. The sport climbing area is very concentrated. The steep, loose slopes make it more difficult to find a place to use the bathroom resulting in some very popular "poop spots." Unfortunately. there is a large amount of used toilet paper floating around these popular spots. This is gross and disrespectful to the area and other climbers. Do your part--put your used toilet paper (and poop for bonus points) in a baggie and take it home for disposal. Also, always pack out what trash you brought in. 

No toilet paper fairy

131 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Rito Sport Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Walt's Wall Waltz
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 144
Super Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 167
Scurvy Dog
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
Clast Action
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
Slacker Ken
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
Boltaneer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Cobble Sutra
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 112
Blackballed
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Balls to the Wall
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 75
Blackbeard
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 188
Cobble Wobble
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 63
Jug-or-Naut
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 148
Bolting Barbie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 65
Stroke Me
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 106
Crack Attack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walt's Wall Waltz Walt's Wall (aka The…
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Super Arete Super Slab
 144
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scurvy Dog Pirate's Wall
 167
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Clast Action Super Slab
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slacker Ken Rad Wall
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Boltaneer Super Slab
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cobble Sutra Big Pine Wall
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blackballed Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 112
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Balls to the Wall Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 122
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blackbeard Pirate's Wall
 75
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cobble Wobble Big Pine Wall
 188
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Jug-or-Naut Balcony
 63
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bolting Barbie Rad Wall
 148
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Stroke Me Rad Wall
 65
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crack Attack Rad Wall
 106
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in El Rito Sport Area »

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