Elevation: 7,657 ft
GPS: 36.392, -106.196 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 178,388 total · 1,007/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Fun, vertical to overhanging conglomerate matrix of metamorphosed sand and mud with inclusions of smooth, rounded cobbles of all sizes. The cobbles, and the holes they leave when they fall out of the matrix, form excellent holds that allow relatively moderate climbing for such steep rock. Fully overhanging routes can be below 5.11, and anything less than vertical will probably clock in at 5.8 or below. All routes are sport bolted, so you can concentrate on the climbing instead of the protection. Text copied from Gary Clark's online guide.
No toilet paper fairy

Getting There

GOOGLE MAP DRIVING DIRECTIONS FROM HIGHWAY 84: goo.gl/maps/QFZtcTFEYe2mc6xv6

El Rito is located about 50 miles north of Santa Fe (please see a road map to find El Rito). From the east end of the village, turn north on Forest Road 44 (dirt). Drive 3.75 miles from the pavement, and park to the left just after the sign "Cañada del Potrero." Camping is available at several locations up this spur road, which ends in about a half-mile. Now walk across the road to a trail paralleling it headed south. The trail crosses a bridge, then turns south up the sidehill to the crags. (~15 min.)
The primary parking area is relatively small. Please park head-in and save space for other vehicles.

More Beta

Gary Clark created free PDF guides for the El Rito sport and trad climbing areas. Gary has moved away from New Mexico and Jason Halladay has adopted the guide updates. The most recent update is from 2014 but is still quite valuable and helpful for navigating the areas.

Pack Out Your Used Toilet Paper (Leave No Trace ethics)

It is imperative climbers pack out their used toilet paper. The sport climbing area is very concentrated. The steep, loose slopes make it more difficult to find a place to use the bathroom resulting in some very popular "poop spots." Unfortunately. there is a large amount of used toilet paper floating around these popular spots. This is gross and disrespectful to the area and other climbers. Do your part--put your used toilet paper (and poop for bonus points) in a baggie and take it home for disposal. Also, always pack out what trash you brought in. 

No toilet paper fairy

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Rito Sport Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
Walt's Wall Waltz
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 138
Super Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 152
Scurvy Dog
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 114
Clast Action
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
Slacker Ken
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Boltaneer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 98
Blackballed
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 105
Balls to the Wall
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 71
Blackbeard
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 162
Cobble Wobble
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Jug-or-Naut
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz)
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 131
Bolting Barbie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
Stroke Me
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 94
Crack Attack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walt's Wall Waltz Walt's Wall (aka The…
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Super Arete Super Slab
 138
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scurvy Dog Pirate's Wall
 152
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Clast Action Super Slab
 114
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slacker Ken Rad Wall
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Boltaneer Super Slab
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blackballed Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 98
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Balls to the Wall Gnar Wall & Route Canal
 105
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blackbeard Pirate's Wall
 71
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cobble Wobble Big Pine Wall
 162
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Jug-or-Naut Balcony
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Walking the Plank (aka The… Pirate's Wall
 43
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bolting Barbie Rad Wall
 131
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Stroke Me Rad Wall
 55
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crack Attack Rad Wall
 94
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in El Rito Sport Area »

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