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Windshield Wiper Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Windshield Wiper Wall
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Attribute, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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DOO (difference of opinion) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eggs Anyone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forbiddance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Half Hearted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Half-Baked S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hitchhiker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackknifed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Go Left S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Never Go Right S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nuclear Sponge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rout @ 66 (sic) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Too Drunk to Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whiskey on the Southbound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Windshield Wiper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,594 ft | 2,010 m |
| GPS: |
39.55516, -111.67382 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 32,371 total · 206/month | |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012 | |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: 2025 ACCESS ALERT!: Nesting Raptors - GOLDEN EAGLE Avoidance Areas.
Details
Access Alert: 2024 GOLDEN EAGLE AVOIDANCE AREA
-2024 Golden Eagle Avoidance Areas: The Early Bird Crag, The Frontera, The Undertaker Wall, The Sushi Bar, The Great Chasm
Each spring Golden Eagles return to Maple Canyon for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The United States Forest Service (USFS) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
-2024 Golden Eagle Avoidance Areas: The Early Bird Crag, The Frontera, The Undertaker Wall, The Sushi Bar, The Great Chasm
Each spring Golden Eagles return to Maple Canyon for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The United States Forest Service (USFS) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
Description
The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).
The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.
See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.
The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.
See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.
Getting There
After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.
During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.
Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.
During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.
Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.
Classic Climbing Routes at Windshield Wiper Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
![Windshield Wiper Wall<br>
1. [[107606927]] 5.10b (left of photo)<br>
2. [[108245940]] 5.12b<br>
3. [[108246065]] 5.11d<br>
4. [[108246080]] 5.12a<br>
5. [[108246073]] 5.12c<br>
6. [[107603666]] 5.11a<br>
7. [[107603650]] 5.11c<br>
8. [[107660262]] 5.12b<br>
9. [[108246086]] 5.12a<br>
10. [[107789030]] 5.12a<br>
11. [[108241875]] 5.12b<br>
12. [[108246095]] 5.12a<br>
13. [[108246102]] 5.12a (right of photo)](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/107610480_smallMed_1494200062.jpg?cache=1597362504)
All Photos Within Windshield Wiper Wall
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