Elevation: 6,594 ft
GPS: 39.555, -111.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,769 total · 144/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Windshield Wiper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 81
Half Hearted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 71
The Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
Forbiddance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 28
Nuclear Sponge
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 55
Beaten into Submission aka King…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
DOO
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Jackknifed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Half Hearted
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Hitchhiker
 71
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Forbiddance
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Nuclear Sponge
 28
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beaten into Submission aka…
 55
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
DOO
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jackknifed
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Windshield Wiper Wall »

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