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Routes in Windshield Wiper Wall

Attribute, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
DOO S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eggs Anyone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbiddance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Hearted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hitchhiker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jackknifed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Go Left S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Never Go Right S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nuclear Sponge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Drunk to Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiskey on the Southbound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Windshield Wiper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Description

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Windshield Wiper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Half Hearted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 68
The Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Attribute
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Forbiddance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Nuclear Sponge
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Beaten into Submission aka King Line
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
DOO
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Jackknifed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Half Hearted
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Hitchhiker
 68
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Attribute
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Forbiddance
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Nuclear Sponge
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beaten into Submission aka…
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
DOO
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jackknifed
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Windshield Wiper Wall »

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