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Windshield Wiper Wall

Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Road

Description

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Eggs Anyone
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Attribute
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Too Drunk to Dream
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Whiskey on the Southbound
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Jackknifed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
DOO
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 75
Half Hearted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
The Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Nuclear Sponge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Forbiddance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Beaten into Submission aka King Line
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
Never Go Right
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Never Go Left
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
The Windshield Wiper
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eggs Anyone
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Attribute
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Too Drunk to Dream
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Whiskey on the Southbound
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jackknifed
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
DOO
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Half Hearted
 75
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Hitchhiker
 67
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Nuclear Sponge
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Forbiddance
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Beaten into Submission aka…
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Never Go Right
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Never Go Left
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Windshield Wiper
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Windshield Wiper Wall<br>
1. [[107606927]] 5.10b (left of photo)<br>
2. [[108245940]] 5.12b<br>
3. [[108246065]] 5.11d<br>
4. [[108246080]] 5.12a<br>
5. [[108246073]] 5.12c<br>
6. [[107603666]] 5.11a<br>
7. [[107603650]] 5.11c<br>
8. [[107660262]] 5.12b<br>
9. [[108246086]] 5.12a<br>
10. [[107789030]] 5.12a<br>
11. [[108241875]] 5.12b<br>
12. [[108246095]] 5.12a<br>
13. [[108246102]] 5.12a  (right of photo)
[Hide Photo] Windshield Wiper Wall 1. Eggs Anyone 5.10b (left of photo) 2. The Attribute 5.12b 3. Too Drunk to Dream 5.11d 4. Whiskey on the Southbound 5.12a 5. Jackknifed 5.12c 6. Half Hearted 5.11a 7.…