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Windshield Wiper Wall

Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd

Description

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Eggs Anyone
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
The Attribute
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Rout @ 66 (sic)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Too Drunk to Dream
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Whiskey on the Southbound
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 83
Jackknifed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 144
DOO (difference of opinion)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 219
Half Hearted
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Half-Baked
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 180
The Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 58
Nuclear Sponge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 144
Forbiddance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 169
Beaten into Submission aka King…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 55
Never Go Right
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 42
Never Go Left
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
The Windshield Wiper
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eggs Anyone
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Attribute
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rout @ 66 (sic)
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Too Drunk to Dream
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Whiskey on the Southbound
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jackknifed
 83
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
DOO (difference of opinion)
 144
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Half Hearted
 219
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Half-Baked
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Hitchhiker
 180
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Nuclear Sponge
 58
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Forbiddance
 144
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Beaten into Submission aka…
 169
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Never Go Right
 55
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Never Go Left
 42
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Windshield Wiper
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown Climber on Forbiddance
[Hide Photo] Unknown Climber on Forbiddance
Left side Wiper Wall. Climber on 10d.
[Hide Photo] Left side Wiper Wall. Climber on 10d.
Good look at 11c. Climber on King Line.
[Hide Photo] Good look at 11c. Climber on King Line.
Windshield Wiper Wall<br>
1. [[107606927]] 5.10b (left of photo)<br>
2. [[108245940]] 5.12b<br>
3. [[108246065]] 5.11d<br>
4. [[108246080]] 5.12a<br>
5. [[108246073]] 5.12c<br>
6. [[107603666]] 5.11a<br>
7. [[107603650]] 5.11c<br>
8. [[107660262]] 5.12b<br>
9. [[108246086]] 5.12a<br>
10. [[107789030]] 5.12a<br>
11. [[108241875]] 5.12b<br>
12. [[108246095]] 5.12a<br>
13. [[108246102]] 5.12a  (right of photo)
[Hide Photo] Windshield Wiper Wall 1. Eggs Anyone 5.10b (left of photo) 2. The Attribute 5.12b 3. Too Drunk to Dream 5.11d 4. Whiskey on the Southbound 5.12a 5. Jackknifed 5.12c 6. Half Hearted 5.11a 7.…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kip H
Farmington, utah
[Hide Comment] A real gem in Maple. Long high quality routes. Fantastic if its raining. Jun 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] There is a very bold, crafty, and hungry squirrel that frequents this crag. I have encountered it most times I have visited over multiple years. I advise being more protective of your snacks than you would be at other crags at Maple. Jun 4, 2024