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The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).
The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.
See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.
After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.
During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.
Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Eggs Anyone |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● The Attribute |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Rout @ 66 (sic) |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Too Drunk to Dream |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Whiskey on the Southbound |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Jackknifed |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● DOO (difference of opinion) |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Half Hearted |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Half-Baked |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● The Hitchhiker |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Nuclear Sponge |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Forbiddance |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Beaten into Submission aka… |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Never Go Right |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Never Go Left |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● The Windshield Wiper |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport |
Farmington, utah