Avg: 3.5 from 58 votes
Routes in Windshield Wiper Wall
|Attribute, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|DOO S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Eggs Anyone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Forbiddance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Half Hearted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hitchhiker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Jackknifed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Never Go Left S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Never Go Right S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Nuclear Sponge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Too Drunk to Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Whiskey on the Southbound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Windshield Wiper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 125 ft|
|Page Views:||3,603 total, 53/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA long, long route by Maple standards, this line will leave you exhausted and feeling like you just ascended three pitches with several cruxes.
Begin by using big, positive holds past the first bolt to a ledge. A tricky, strenuous crux awaits up a vertical section to another "ledgy" bit and a good rest.
Another cruxy section to another rest. Another cruxy section. Another rest. Repeat.
The total bolt count on this route is 25 plus anchors, although several of the bolts can be profitably skipped (the route was equipped ground up by Jason Stevens, presumably using a Willy Stick which accounts for the closely-spaced bolts).
You may also want to reach down and unclip some of the bolts once you get a higher bolt clipped because, near the top, you're pulling up a lot of rope and the less drag the better.
Note that the route is longer than half a 60m rope. A new, 70m rope barely reached (there was about 2 feet of rope left on the belayer's side when the climber was on the ground). There is a midpoint chain anchor to accommodate shorter ropes.
LocationWhen you emerge from the short trail from the road you are directly in front of the black water streak. This line is the first route to the right of the water streak.
Protection25 bolts, chain anchors. Two of the bolts can be easily skipped (bolts two and sevenalthough don't fall skipping bolt two before clipping bolt three). You may choose to skip others higher up.
There is also a chain anchor midway up the route that can be used to lower off the rope with a single 60m rope.