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Routes in Windshield Wiper Wall

Attribute, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
DOO S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eggs Anyone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbiddance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half Hearted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hitchhiker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jackknifed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Go Left S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Go Right S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nuclear Sponge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Drunk to Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiskey on the Southbound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Windshield Wiper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 751 total, 11/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jun 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

12a/b/c whatever. Climb for a long time on cobbles. Its very similar climbing to the 12 climbing on the Minimum Wall. An occasional jug with lots of steep cobble pulling. Great climbing, but nothing that really sets it apart from the other 12's.

Location

The first 12 on the left as you come around the corner from Hitchhiker, designated #8 in John Ross's beta photo. It has a cobble marked with a "12c/12a to show the 2 routes that start here.

Protection

15-17 draws with biners on the anchors.

Photos

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Lotapowder
Sandy
 
Lotapowder   Sandy
 
I just did this route again yesterday to see how hard the "broken hold" has made it. I have always used the anti-cobble and not the slopey pinch, so the difficulty hasn't changed at all. I always thought it was 12c, but it isn't any harder than it was origionally and definitely not 12c/d... Whatever the grade, it is a great route with a pretty hard crux with a pump on. Like Brad said, the section after the crux is awesome! Jun 24, 2016
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
As mentioned in the previous comment, there is a crux move that has a high slopey pinch. However, today the thumbcatch hold for the bouldery pinch broke, and it is definitely harder now. It still goes with different beta, but the most obvious path is gone Jul 28, 2013
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
3/4's up the wall after the last good rest, this route delivers a stopper crux move off an "anti-cobble" or a higher slopey pinch. Feels like hard v4 to me. Perhaps it would be easier in the cooler temps, but its unlikely this will get any easier with more traffic. The post crux finish up the pocketed and blancey blunt arete is great! Sep 10, 2012