Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Ryan Kalas, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 709 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

New route as of August 2017. Cautious climbing for leader and helmet for belayer recommended for a while.

Head up just left of the water groove/crack/channel for two bolts. Cross into the groove on good pockets for two more bolts and a less steep middle section. You can catch a no-hands rest in the middle to recover for the pumpy upper half.
Climb steeper rock on some great cobbles and smaller three-finger pockets to a tricky section just below and to the anchors.

Location

About 15 feet to the right of Scurvy Dog and 5 feet left of Oxymorons, just behind the trees.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains and lowering carabiners.

Photos

Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
  5.9
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
  5.9
Great route. It is a little less straightforward than Scurvy Dog and requires some feeling around to figure out which holds are actually holds. And don't forget the pockets, they can be hard to find down low, but once you spot them, the are terrific. If you are new to the area, this route is a great introduction to this type of rock and will allow you to build your confidence before you move onto harder climbs. Nov 27, 2017
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.10a
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.10a
If Cobble Sutra is 10a, then so is this; climbs very similarly at the top. Sep 10, 2018
Mort
  5.10a/b
Mort  
  5.10a/b
I was ticking the new routes with no break in between and the humidity was high, and I went straight over the bolts at the top, blah, blah, but it felt harder than most of the other new 5.10s on this wall. Took me by surprise after cruising Squeeze My Cobbles. Mar 19, 2019