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Routes in The Early Bird Crag

Angry Birds S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzzards over Lexington S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cockadoodle Don't S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cockadoodle Doo S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Eagle Tenders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle's Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Early Bird Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge of Glory, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Falcon and Gulo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fast Times at Wolverine High S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Comes The Turkey S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Holes In The Universe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In cobble we trust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King Cobble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Percolator, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pullet Interrupted S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raven Ridge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of the Drillslingers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rib Cage S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silt in the Saddle Stitching S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Cobble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine on My Shoulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tweetie the Condor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Doodle Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yankee Magpie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yankee Strikes Again, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 6,755 ft
GPS: 39.556, -111.682 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,510 total, 144/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Jul 8, 2012 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This East facing crag contains 30 routes ranging from 5.1- 5.12. It receives sun all morning and doesn't see a lot of traffic as it is quite hot most of the time. The crag does contain a few multi-pitch routes with The Eagle's Nest 5.10c (5p) being the proudest line on the wall.

Getting There

Park near the bridge and cross the creek to the North. Walk East along the base of the wall until you reach the sunny east face of the crag. Eagle's Nest and Eagle's Tenders will be the first routes you pass.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Early Bird Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

V.C. C
Folsom, CA
V.C. C   Folsom, CA
Some routes were really crumbly. Two egg-sized cobbles broke off when I was on "Silt in the Saddle Stitching". I'd suggest to make sure the cobbles are well-attached to the wall before weighing on them, especially the smaller ones. Jul 7, 2016
Gavin W
Surrey, BC
Gavin W   Surrey, BC
If you're looking for this area, don't make the mistake my party did and head up the first canyon you encounter after crossing the creek that has bolts. That would be Maple Corridor. Keep heading parallel to the road until you hit the next crag. May 6, 2015
Jesse James is right regarding the fact that there seemed to be a lot of loose rock on the crag. However I disagree that it is a horrible place for those transitioning from the gym. In fact I would say the band of 5.1's next to each other are good routes for teaching beginners how to lead and also set / clean top rope anchors on sport routes. It isn't busy and lots of space on the ledge for both a trainer and student.

NOTE: Lots of routes at this crag are not listed in Mountain Project so don't try to count the bolts left to right based on the listing here. Jul 6, 2013
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
Lured by the copious amount of stars in the new guidebook, we were un-impressed with the crag overall. Lots of loose stuff, so belayers should definitely wear a helmet. This is probably not the best place for beginners fresh out of the gym, despite the many easier climbs here. Jun 10, 2013

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