Elevation: 6,755 ft
GPS: 39.556, -111.682 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,913 total · 163/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Jul 8, 2012 with updates from Brian in SLC
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

This East facing crag contains 30 routes ranging from 5.1- 5.12. It receives sun all morning and doesn't see a lot of traffic as it is quite hot most of the time. The crag does contain a few multi-pitch routes with The Eagle's Nest 5.10c (5p) being the proudest line on the wall.

Getting There

Park near the bridge and cross the creek to the North. Walk East along the base of the wall until you reach the sunny east face of the crag. Eagle's Nest and Eagle's Tenders will be the first routes you pass.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Early Bird Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Early Bird Crag »

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Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
Lured by the copious amount of stars in the new guidebook, we were un-impressed with the crag overall. Lots of loose stuff, so belayers should definitely wear a helmet. This is probably not the best place for beginners fresh out of the gym, despite the many easier climbs here. Jun 10, 2013
Jesse James is right regarding the fact that there seemed to be a lot of loose rock on the crag. However I disagree that it is a horrible place for those transitioning from the gym. In fact I would say the band of 5.1's next to each other are good routes for teaching beginners how to lead and also set / clean top rope anchors on sport routes. It isn't busy and lots of space on the ledge for both a trainer and student.

NOTE: Lots of routes at this crag are not listed in Mountain Project so don't try to count the bolts left to right based on the listing here. Jul 6, 2013
Gavin W
Langley, BC
Gavin W   Langley, BC
If you're looking for this area, don't make the mistake my party did and head up the first canyon you encounter after crossing the creek that has bolts. That would be Maple Corridor. Keep heading parallel to the road until you hit the next crag. May 6, 2015
V.C. C
Folsom, CA
V.C. C   Folsom, CA
Some routes were really crumbly. Two egg-sized cobbles broke off when I was on "Silt in the Saddle Stitching". I'd suggest to make sure the cobbles are well-attached to the wall before weighing on them, especially the smaller ones. Jul 7, 2016