Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Dale Caldwell, 1988|
|Page Views:||773 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Tangeman on Aug 31, 2017|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
There is some definite ledge fall potential at the crux. Apparently there used to be a midway anchor to help mitigate this, but it was removed.
Three ways to start this climb:
1) Climb the first 20 feet of Fishy Business (10d, most direct). Bring a small cam, maybe like metolius 0 or 1, to protect against ground fall. Otherwise, this has one bolt with some spicy moves getting up to it.
2) Climb a two bolt slabby mantle further to the right.
3) Climb up the initial corner of Up Up and Away. This is the easiest way to get to the base, maybe 5.7, wouldn't recommend placing any gear in the corner though for rope drag reasons.
Once you're on the big ledge below the arete, the line and it's six bolts become obvious. The crux is moving past the second.
If you lower off the top with a 60, tie knots. It's a full 30m back to the ground.