Type: TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: George Bracksieck and Deb Thompson
Page Views: 839 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

3 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This is a nice line that is/was almost worth tossing in a few bolts to protect the first half. Given the new permit process, I'm not sure it'll get them. George and Deb risked a tight pendulum swing when they fired up it a year or two ago. Cluckers can throw in a #2 and #0.5 (and possibly a #0.75) to put in a directional or two to reduce dribbling down the leg, cluck, cluck, cluck.

The climbing crux is near the ground as you sort of slap up the first prow with slightly slippery feet. Beware of reachy too far right lest you clutch a portable hold or two. Gain the ledge. Climb the next prow. Gain the ledge. The mental bits come ascending the crack. There is one iffy, bulbous, right foot hold that held for us. Continue up the crack. Note, the top was partially cleaned. A #2 Camalot just below the top was a final directional.

This could have been done prior to the last year or two, but it had some obvious holds to clean that suggested otherwise.

Location Suggest change

This is right of Crack and starts up a pair of stacks micro-prows.

Protection Suggest change

Using the anchors for Crack, you can just fire it if you don't get bothered by pendulums or you can use a #0.75, #0.5, and #2 Camalots (in order from below or reversed from above).


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