Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: FFA: Mark Rolofson on December 19, 2010.
Page Views: 1,492 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jan 14, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Direct Finish

Climb to the 6th (final) bolt of Old Man And The Sea. Move right around the prow to a jug and climb straight up to a two bolt anchor (shared with Deepwater Horizon). The exciting run-out climbing no longer exists since Mike added a 7th bolt in January 2012. Mike also managed to do the moves straight up past 6th bolt, which may have a harder move or two versus traversing right (that has more moves). Enjoy all the tricky climbing on Old Man And The Sea with a hard finish instead of bailing out left. The technical cruxes used to be at the 3rd bolt & then the direct finish, but is now at the 5th bolt. In Spring 2011, a large side pull pinch flake broke off and this section is now a very technical. 12c crux. This section was originally 5.11 but is now much harder than the rest of the climb. My original rating for Old Man & The Sea Direct was .12a/b.

Location

This lies just right of Nurse Shark.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
The difference between "Old Man & The Sea" & "Old Man & The Sea Direct" is how they orginally finished. The former originally finished to the anchor on "Nurse Shark" with 5.11 moves past 6th bolt. Mike edited his original post. In 2010, when I led the direct finish that leads to the shared anchor with "Deepwater Horizon", it became the redpoint crux of "Old Man & The Sea" with .12a moves. I did this finish without the last bolt. No big deal because the runout was only 5.8. Then the route changed dramatically when a large, sidepull flake left of the 5th bolt was pulled off, changing this section of the climb from 5.11 to 5.12. Now regardless of how you finish, the climb is solid 5.12. Personally, I find it this move harder than any move on "Deepwater Horizon". The direct finish has become the standard finish. It is arguably still the redpoint crux, as it is the final obstacle to get through when you may be pumped. Jan 11, 2015
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
  5.12b
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
  5.12b
There is no way this is 12 c/d. It's 12b at most. I'd say 12c is a stretch. Easier than Deep Water Horizon for sure. It would be a really hard onsight though. Dec 23, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade. Mar 15, 2014
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
This route is a duplicate entry of Old Man and the Sea, maybe just make that one the only page? It's confusing since they are listed as 12a and 12d, but the route description is the same. Jan 11, 2014