Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: FFA: Mark Rolofson on December 19, 2010.
Page Views: 1,669 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jan 14, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Direct Finish

Climb to the 6th (final) bolt of Old Man And The Sea. Move right around the prow to a jug and climb straight up to a two bolt anchor (shared with Deepwater Horizon). The exciting run-out climbing no longer exists since Mike added a 7th bolt in January 2012. Mike also managed to do the moves straight up past 6th bolt, which may have a harder move or two versus traversing right (that has more moves). Enjoy all the tricky climbing on Old Man And The Sea with a hard finish instead of bailing out left. The technical cruxes used to be at the 3rd bolt & then the direct finish, but is now at the 5th bolt. In Spring 2011, a large side pull pinch flake broke off and this section is now a very technical. 12c crux. This section was originally 5.11 but is now much harder than the rest of the climb. My original rating for Old Man & The Sea Direct was .12a/b.

Location

This lies just right of Nurse Shark.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

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Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
This route is a duplicate entry of Old Man and the Sea, maybe just make that one the only page? It's confusing since they are listed as 12a and 12d, but the route description is the same. Jan 11, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade. Mar 15, 2014
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
5.12b
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
5.12b
There is no way this is 12 c/d. It's 12b at most. I'd say 12c is a stretch. Easier than Deep Water Horizon for sure. It would be a really hard onsight though. Dec 23, 2014
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
The difference between "Old Man & The Sea" & "Old Man & The Sea Direct" is how they orginally finished. The former originally finished to the anchor on "Nurse Shark" with 5.11 moves past 6th bolt. Mike edited his original post. In 2010, when I led the direct finish that leads to the shared anchor with "Deepwater Horizon", it became the redpoint crux of "Old Man & The Sea" with .12a moves. I did this finish without the last bolt. No big deal because the runout was only 5.8. Then the route changed dramatically when a large, sidepull flake left of the 5th bolt was pulled off, changing this section of the climb from 5.11 to 5.12. Now regardless of how you finish, the climb is solid 5.12. Personally, I find it this move harder than any move on "Deepwater Horizon". The direct finish has become the standard finish. It is arguably still the redpoint crux, as it is the final obstacle to get through when you may be pumped. Jan 11, 2015