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Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait)
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 6
votes
Routes in The East Quarry
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Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13 |
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Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Defective Agency S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Fish S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goonch, The TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Great Wide Shark T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harambe Lives V4- 6B |
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Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+ |
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Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R |
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Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Hidden Slab V3- 6A |
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High Tide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Sea S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pigeon of the Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinkerton S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pretzel Logic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sea Urchin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiger Shark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Weakfish S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wooly Woody T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 39.77286, -105.20459 |
| FA: | Mike Cichon |
| Page Views: | 2,575 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mike C on Nov 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure
Details
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
Like all the trad routes here, this one can be a serious undertaking. Most of the placements are safe for body weight...a few are good for falling, but be careful. There is one bolt after the crux section before the roof. I drilled the bolt on lead by hand off a Beak. It took two serious tries to complete the first free ascent. There are awesome and sustained tips locking crux with some stem moves to boot...definitely my most proud route there. A beautiful addition to the area's trad portfolio...could be easier or harder than the grade I listed...a repeat will reveal more.
Protection
All gear and one bolt....one #0.75 Camalot at begining, next the smallest C3, backed up with a beak, then a really good yellow Alien which I backed up with a #0.4 Camalot, then a red Alien at the crux...and then the second smallest C3 (desperate) and or a pretty good but shallow #0.75 Camalot again. Next a 3"x3/8" stainless steel bolt. Above and left it is possible to then place a purple (#0.5)Camalot on a shoulder length runner or skip it and gun it up on manky face holds to solid green Alien protected, kneebar, roof exit moves...it is nice to have a belayer you can trust.
2 Comments