Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 1,110 total · 11/month
Shared By: mike c on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This has tricky moves about a 3rd of the way up...it is short but really fierce and sort of bouldery (reachy)...the gear is poor and only body weight friendly, but the climbing is super fun. It was originally led ground up aid, mixed-free (5.10, A3+).

Location

This is just right of Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) and left of Herringbone, just left of the Primary Chimney.

Protection

Marginal gear leads to a bolted anchor.

Photos

mike c
golden
  5.12+
mike c   golden
  5.12+
Placing gear and pulling these moves have been my most intense challenge at this little but stacked quarry. I've struggled through quite a few gripping attemps on this ultra short, thin seam. After maybe ten or so tries I finally led this route clean. Unfortunately, I only managed a pinkpoint of it. Fortunately, I love a good challenge and am looking forward to a traditional redpoint. Of course, I think it's a little harder placing the gear on lead, but I think I can do it one piece at a time.... Feb 20, 2012
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.12+ R
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.12+ R
The crux is short and pretty powerful. Luckily it's low to the ground.... I think this route is a good option for the free solo. Just a thought. Fun route.
thanks Feb 14, 2013
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
  5.12+ R
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
  5.12+ R