Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Langston
Page Views: 1,450 total · 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Originally I sent this route and thought 11c/d or so. I thought it'd be called "East Quarry Story". The most important hold on the route broke off and in trying to send it sans hold, I ripped my A4 and A2. It's been almost 2 months since I did it and I'm nowhere near being able to get back on it.

I'm tentatively rating it 12c, only because it's harder than every 12c in CCC, but I haven't re-sent it yet so I can't really say. I only got the FA before the hold broke, it's not a project, fuck this route (aside from the ripping of connective tissue and the cancellation of so many plans that it caused, it's actually a good route).

All the bolts were placed on lead.

Location

This is in the middle of the wall, 3 hangers up high. It is right of Hellhound, the A-Z right to left thing got this one in the wrong place.

Protection

It's a sport route, but you need a few finger (0.5) size cams to place before you get up to the bolts.

Photos

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Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.12b
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.12b
I did this route today, I thought it was very good. I forgot my printout guide so didn't know anything re grade or history of this line but thought it aesthetic looking and not unreasonable appearing from the bottom. I don't know where the broken hold is/was (must have been around the second bolt?), but it was hard about the second bolt. I moved just left of the second bolt from the obvious flared pod and then continued up and slightly left following the weakness to a shake hold with poor feet, then back slightly R. to reeach to clip bolt #3, and stright up to the lip seemed like the way to go. This resulted in the chains being just to the R. from the lip jug. Perfectly reasonable line though it wanders around the bolts some, that's the nature of bolted on lead placements vs. rap installed bolts, but was fine. This was challenging and enjoyable with fun movement and seemed the natural line, maybe 12b? Seemed solid 12c-ish or more if you were to follow straight up from bolts 2, 3, to chains and a little contrived, though maybe following the bolt line directly was the way to go prior to the broken hold?.

Nevertheless, high quality, challenging, and recommended. I think it's a cool line. Apr 30, 2011
I tried this route again about a year ago. I noticed that the three bolts are suffering corrosion. Probably a mixed metal thing. In 2008 or whenever I bolted this, I had never even heard of galvanic corrosion. Normally in CO it still wouldn't matter after such a short time, but this thing is a waterfall infrequently.

The studs are Powers 3/8" SS. It needs new hangers though. I won't be around maybe ever to fix it, and I do feel bad about that.

Also, if you want to bolt the start and turn it into a proper sport route, feel free. The 30' of 5.9 at the start is no reason to keep people from trying it.

Other routes you might want to check the bolts on - anchors of "Play With Your Balls" and anchors on "Deepwater Horizon." Jan 31, 2016