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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dave Rogers, LP, first lead of dihedral variation - Lou Thatcher
Page Views: 576 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Named in honor of Emilia, born to Jon and Mary, this route is a nice little line with a few variations to add value.

Find this line perhaps 50-60' to the right of Great Wide Shark at the right end of the obvious development at East Quarry. Some hedge trimmers might be nice to enhance the short walk from the already cleared path.

For the above described difficulty rating, climb up using a combination of the hand crack on the left wall and the right-facing dihedral. Maybe halfway up, the climbing pulls one to the left to finish the crack. Move up and then stem back right into the dihedral. Finish up on an interesting combination of face holds. The best anchor is maybe 20 feet from the edge. A #0.5 & #1 Camalots and a blue Alien can be used for the anchor.

There are two more variations here to play on:

1. The left crack (tight hands to wider hands) can be climbed without use of the dihedral. The inside of the crack has mineral deposits which can make it a bit painful at times. Finish back in the dihedral.

2. The dihedral itself may be climbed. The crux is sequential and demands paying attention to your feet. Protecting this on lead requires small wires and tiny cams in funkier rock. A #10 hex fits in the 1st slot with some fiddling. You can get a #2 Camalot in the crack to the left after the crux.

To descend: walk off to the left to the descent gully perhaps 150 yards away or rap off one of the bolt anchors that you can access on the East Quarry routes to the left.

Emilia, I hope someday you will dance up this corner like your parents float up routes.

Location

This is perhaps 50-60 feet to the right of Great Wide Shark at the east end of the East Quarry in darker rock.

Protection

Tiny cams to a #3 Camalot. 2 #1 Camalots are useful. Small wires, green Alien, #10 hex, #2 Camalot, red Alien, and anchor gear will be useful for the dihedral variation.

Photos

Baumer
Boulder, CO
 
Baumer   Boulder, CO
 
A bolt anchor (and some further cleaning) will make this a solid 2-star route. The walk-off to the left is a bit loose and sketchy. Feb 19, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Video by Jon Tashkin:

youtu.be/DW38SZuePao Dec 13, 2012