Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Dave Rogers, LP, first lead of dihedral variation - Lou Thatcher
Page Views: 1,450 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Named in honor of Emilia, born to Jon and Mary, this route is a nice little line with a few variations to add value.

Find this line perhaps 50-60' to the right of Great Wide Shark at the right end of the obvious development at East Quarry. Some hedge trimmers might be nice to enhance the short walk from the already cleared path.

For the above described difficulty rating, climb up using a combination of the hand crack on the left wall and the right-facing dihedral. Maybe halfway up, the climbing pulls one to the left to finish the crack. Move up and then stem back right into the dihedral. Finish up on an interesting combination of face holds. The best anchor is maybe 20 feet from the edge. A #0.5 & #1 Camalots and a blue Alien can be used for the anchor.

There are two more variations here to play on:

1. The left crack (tight hands to wider hands) can be climbed without use of the dihedral. The inside of the crack has mineral deposits which can make it a bit painful at times. Finish back in the dihedral.

2. The dihedral itself may be climbed. The crux is sequential and demands paying attention to your feet. Protecting this on lead requires small wires and tiny cams in funkier rock. A #10 hex fits in the 1st slot with some fiddling. You can get a #2 Camalot in the crack to the left after the crux.

To descend: walk off to the left to the descent gully perhaps 150 yards away or rap off one of the bolt anchors that you can access on the East Quarry routes to the left.

Emilia, I hope someday you will dance up this corner like your parents float up routes.

Location Suggest change

This is perhaps 50-60 feet to the right of Great Wide Shark at the east end of the East Quarry in darker rock.

Protection Suggest change

Tiny cams to a #3 Camalot. 2 #1 Camalots are useful. Small wires, green Alien, #10 hex, #2 Camalot, red Alien, and anchor gear will be useful for the dihedral variation.