Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft (12 m)|
|FA:||Dave Rogers, LP, first lead of dihedral variation - Lou Thatcher|
|Page Views:||1,050 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Oct 14, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adverturous.
Find this line perhaps 50-60' to the right of Great Wide Shark at the right end of the obvious development at East Quarry. Some hedge trimmers might be nice to enhance the short walk from the already cleared path.
For the above described difficulty rating, climb up using a combination of the hand crack on the left wall and the right-facing dihedral. Maybe halfway up, the climbing pulls one to the left to finish the crack. Move up and then stem back right into the dihedral. Finish up on an interesting combination of face holds. The best anchor is maybe 20 feet from the edge. A #0.5 & #1 Camalots and a blue Alien can be used for the anchor.
There are two more variations here to play on:
1. The left crack (tight hands to wider hands) can be climbed without use of the dihedral. The inside of the crack has mineral deposits which can make it a bit painful at times. Finish back in the dihedral.
2. The dihedral itself may be climbed. The crux is sequential and demands paying attention to your feet. Protecting this on lead requires small wires and tiny cams in funkier rock. A #10 hex fits in the 1st slot with some fiddling. You can get a #2 Camalot in the crack to the left after the crux.
To descend: walk off to the left to the descent gully perhaps 150 yards away or rap off one of the bolt anchors that you can access on the East Quarry routes to the left.
Emilia, I hope someday you will dance up this corner like your parents float up routes.