Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 1,279 total · 11/month
Shared By: mike c on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

The beginning has a bit of a sustained hand crack for the grade and the finish traverse is a little sinister. A good warm up with some loose rock up higher. Traverse right to the anchor atop Nurse Shark 20 feet right of Play With Your Balls. This was the first route attempted here and had evidence of prior attempts. I found an old fixed hex on my first rope solo lead attempt, but I backed down and down climbed because of some severely dangerous loose blocks.

Location

The route is about ten feet to the right of Play With Your Balls. It climbs a short hand crack on the left side of a detached pillar, hits a ledge and continues to traverse over to the near rightward anchor. Rap off.

Protection

Bomber gear; standard rack up to #2 Camalot.

Photos

RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
There are lots of loose blocks still at the top of this route. You can traverse right at the ledge below them, as suggested in the route description, or you can sling the top of the pillar on the left side of the ledge. It's only 20/25 feet tall at the top of the pillar, but it gives you a top rope on the thin hands crack on the right side of the pillar as well. I understand why there are no chains up top of this route, the blocks up top are scary and not worth the extra 10 feet of marginal climbing. Sep 13, 2010
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
I really enjoyed this spicy route. The hand crack at the bottom is great and sucks up gear. The traverse to the hand crack at the top is easier than it looks and takes small cams if you look closely at the horizontal seam. The top hand crack is even sweeter than the bottom. A really great route! Dec 12, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
Don't sling the pillar for a TR as suggested by Ryan O! It is detached!! Jan 4, 2011
mike c
golden
  5.8
mike c   golden
  5.8
I think this was the first route at the East Quarry to be attempted...before a single bolt was drilled at the East Quarry, I hiked up there and attempted Sea Robin myself on rope solo. I discovered an ancient hex deep in the crack up about 15 feet..the crack was super dirty and filled with a lot of junk...up higher on the ledge and above the ledge were some death blocks which I trundled (fun). I retreated as well fearing some serious danger and being alone. The evidence suggests some prior climbers retreated as well from the hex which had an old carabiner...if anyone has any info on this climb, please let me know. Jan 11, 2011
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
Hey Jay, we've never met, but if you can pull that pillar off, I'll buy you a beer :) At the time, I thought it was a nice (safe) diversion for some budding crack climbers. Regardless, it's probably not a good idea to sling that pillar anyway, because then you have to downclimb to clean your gear.

That's pretty interesting stuff about the old hex, Mike. Do you still place it ;) Jun 20, 2011
Hardy Fulgham
Bay Area
 
Hardy Fulgham   Bay Area
 
Followed Mike C. yesterday on this fun little route starting with some hand jamming and then a little traverse to the right before topping out. Several cool features crammed into this short climb! Feb 10, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10a
It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table. May 28, 2014