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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 1,176 total, 11/month
Shared By: mike c on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The beginning has a bit of a sustained hand crack for the grade and the finish traverse is a little sinister. A good warm up with some loose rock up higher. Traverse right to the anchor atop Nurse Shark 20 feet right of Play With Your Balls. This was the first route attempted here and had evidence of prior attempts. I found an old fixed hex on my first rope solo lead attempt, but I backed down and down climbed because of some severely dangerous loose blocks.

Location

The route is about ten feet to the right of Play With Your Balls. It climbs a short hand crack on the left side of a detached pillar, hits a ledge and continues to traverse over to the near rightward anchor. Rap off.

Protection

Bomber gear; standard rack up to #2 Camalot.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10a
It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table. May 28, 2014
Hardy Fulgham
Bay Area
 
Hardy Fulgham   Bay Area
 
Followed Mike C. yesterday on this fun little route starting with some hand jamming and then a little traverse to the right before topping out. Several cool features crammed into this short climb! Feb 10, 2013
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
Hey Jay, we've never met, but if you can pull that pillar off, I'll buy you a beer :) At the time, I thought it was a nice (safe) diversion for some budding crack climbers. Regardless, it's probably not a good idea to sling that pillar anyway, because then you have to downclimb to clean your gear.

That's pretty interesting stuff about the old hex, Mike. Do you still place it ;) Jun 20, 2011
mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
I think this was the first route at the East Quarry to be attempted...before a single bolt was drilled at the East Quarry, I hiked up there and attempted Sea Robin myself on rope solo. I discovered an ancient hex deep in the crack up about 15 feet..the crack was super dirty and filled with a lot of junk...up higher on the ledge and above the ledge were some death blocks which I trundled (fun). I retreated as well fearing some serious danger and being alone. The evidence suggests some prior climbers retreated as well from the hex which had an old carabiner...if anyone has any info on this climb, please let me know. Jan 11, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
Don't sling the pillar for a TR as suggested by Ryan O! It is detached!! Jan 4, 2011
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
I really enjoyed this spicy route. The hand crack at the bottom is great and sucks up gear. The traverse to the hand crack at the top is easier than it looks and takes small cams if you look closely at the horizontal seam. The top hand crack is even sweeter than the bottom. A really great route! Dec 12, 2010
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
There are lots of loose blocks still at the top of this route. You can traverse right at the ledge below them, as suggested in the route description, or you can sling the top of the pillar on the left side of the ledge. It's only 20/25 feet tall at the top of the pillar, but it gives you a top rope on the thin hands crack on the right side of the pillar as well. I understand why there are no chains up top of this route, the blocks up top are scary and not worth the extra 10 feet of marginal climbing. Sep 13, 2010