Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Lindie Brink
Page Views: 1,558 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Apr 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Climb a short crack into the chimney and find somewhat tricky, small gear in the thin crack on the left to protect a series of fun moves to the anchor.

Location

This is in the chimney on the far right side of the East Quarry.

Protection

Think thin, small Aliens, small offset Aliens, steel wires, Ballnuts, etc. up to finger-sized. You might want something as large as a #4 Friend to protect the start. Fixed ring anchors at the finish.

Photos

mike c
golden
mike c   golden
Sweet name! Nice looking gear route. Apr 5, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
5.8
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
5.8
Like many of the easier climbs in the Quarry and East Quarry, a sandbag at the grade of 5.7. If one goes INTO the squeeze chimney to place gear as I did, it is a slithery affair, and should be renamed Watersnake or Eel 5.9. However, one can get thin gear in the crack to the left, and stem back to the back wall of the chimney but never get into it. 5.8. Also, a #3 Camalot is helpful to protect the moves off the ground. Nov 18, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.6
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.6
We were walking the base scoping the routes as the sun was setting. We saw this and though it looked really fun and thought we could solo it in our regular shoes. I started my way up and was soon at the chimney after a couple OW ish moves that would have sucked to reverse.
Once in the chimney, it's pretty much smooth sailing even with out climbing shoes, it's all about the technique. Super fun movement and a pretty nice line in general. Dec 19, 2009
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.7
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.7
A tricky lead for the grade, but a really fun route. You need to use your entire body to get up this line. Dec 12, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
This is a really fun line and with good stemming technique is no harder than 5.7. There is no reason to go into the chimney. Jan 7, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.8
Luke Childers  
  5.8
Fun. My little gril just loves this one and enjoys the steaming and chimney climbing. Very cool. Dec 28, 2013
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
 
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
 
Fun chimney. Super solid pro if you don't mind running out the first 20 feet. Jan 13, 2018