Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson belayed by Kirk Miller on Dec. 10, 2011
Page Views: 4,298 total · 50/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Dec 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Start by climbing a wide crack up the left side of 15 foot pillar. Move left past 2nd bolt and up the face to a shallow, horizontal break & 3rd bolt. The crux traverses right onto the blunt arete via sidepulls & poor footholds. Continue up the left side of the arete with another 5.12 crux. Move left at 5th bolt under a small bulge to a sharp arete. A final 5.12 section leads up this arete to jugs above the last bolt. Traverse right and reach down to the anchor.

I bolted this route in January 2010 and had climbed it (A0) hanging on thre 3rd bolt 5 times prior to the successful redpoint ascent. The crux is very difficult, and there was one move I could barely do. Finally I tried a different smear for my left foot and a tiny piece of rock broke off leaving a small edge. This foothold made all the difference. This climb took me a lot of effort. I believe it is one of the two hardest climbs on North Table Mountain. I would like to thank everyone who belayed me on numerous attempts.

Location

This climb is between "Tiger Shark" & "S.S. Minnow". It ascends the phallus-shaped formation capped with a large head.

Protection

7 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Nice work/dedication, Mark.... Dec 14, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Yes, and nice name too! Dec 14, 2011
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
 
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
 
A very nice route with great compression movement, quality stone, and cryptic beta. A nice addition indeed, thanks Mark. Dec 15, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
Good work, guys. I remember trying it on TR and thinking it felt pretty impossible. Jan 9, 2012
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Thank you very much, Mark, for bolting this line! I think the anchors could be moved to where the bolt is, but AMAZING EYE for a Classic climb with very very aesthetic moves. Beautiful line and a great 13a that was fun to work. Thin footholds with balancy movements! Thank you for bolting this beast! :) First 13a Send! Thank you again! Apr 21, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Great route! Nice, interesting moves all the way up the wall which requires a variety of techniques. Great flow to the movement as well with logical (although maybe inobvious) sequences. I agree that the anchor should be placed at or above the last bolt, instead of down to the right. Thanks for the addition, Mark! Dec 15, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
I was quite impressed with this route. I found myself thinking that this rock reminded be of the bullet hard sandstone of Summersville Lake at the New River Gorge. Cool climbing with some less than there feet and some bad slopers. Give yourself a pat on the back if you send when its hot and the holds are super greasy. I'm curious to know if the one pocket on the route is au natural or not? It seems a bit suspicious and out of place? Hmmm.... I also agree that the anchors should be moved to above the last bolt or we can make a quick fix and sink another bolt in next to the last bolt and just hang some steel Climbtech draws making that the anchor. Overall, a fun route and a great addition to the Table Mountain Area.... Feb 17, 2014
Pocket "natural"? The entire cliff was manufactured, so technically nothing there is natural. The pocket could have been from drilling to set the explosives. Feb 18, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
I'll talk to Mark about moving the anchors up. When I put in the first set, I had no idea how the route would top out.
Can't say where it came from, we didn't create the pocket. Feb 18, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Hey Kirk. Yeah, I figured you envisioned people climbing "in" the scoop and people ended up climbing more on the arete. At this point, most people are just clipping the last bolt and not even touching the anchors. Regardless, a great route! Thanks for putting it up. Well done.... Feb 19, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
For sure, Mark gets the credit for this one! I only spotted the line and installed the initial anchors, but Mark did all the work. While Mark was bolting this one, I bolted its neighbor, Wooly Bully. Feb 20, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
I have to say that although I agree the anchors need to be moved...the redpoint is WAY Better and more fun with them where they are...it leaves an element of spookiness and is fun to lean over on that not so great right foot to the right of the arete and just hope that it does not blow! That being said, the anchors are a bit out of place! But I think for the true excitement of the redpoint, you should clip the anchors! Feb 21, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
I spoke with Mark about moving the anchors up... he's of the opinion to leave it the way it is. He said the route cleans well from the existing anchor set and the finish is well protected as is. Feb 25, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Kirk, I really do agree. Honestly, I think it is a really really exciting finish with the anchors the way they are...and not a dangerous one. The fall would be super clean and adds another technical move at the top. I had to lean far right and breathe with a nervous laugh when clipping! Super fun and committing clip for the anchors off a sidepull on a small foot! :) Feb 25, 2014
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
Very subtle and elegant route; well-thought out and bolted perfectly. Put your feet just right for your body size/type, and it's $$$; place them wrong and you'll be slip-sliding all over the arete. Fortunately, there are lots of smears and ripples and different options for all-comers. Thanks, Mark, for a killer line! Jan 21, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a
You're welcome, Matt. I'm glad you like the climb. Thanks for your comment. May 30, 2017
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.13a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.13a
What a classic, fun and challenging line. Thanks, Kirk and Mark, for your vision and commitment. Of all your excellent lines this might just be my favorite. What a blast! Nov 13, 2017
Jcburgart
  5.12d
Jcburgart  
  5.12d
Fun find! We just need another 40 feet of climbing :) and maybe an anchor adjustment, though I do understand the reasoning behind the current setup. Dec 24, 2017
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12d
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12d
Very fun route. Didn't seem like any move/sequence was any harder than V5/6, but I'm tall, and the last moves over the roof are pretty big off balance reaches.... Probably a lot harder for someone shorter. Jan 29, 2018