Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Schmeer, Kirk Miller
Page Views: 1,733 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Start just left of the bottom of Hellhound, follow bolts up, left, and up onto the prow. Ascend the prow past the first crux then, instead of finishing on the bailout Defective Agency, traverse back right to engage the second crux, the "Spock's ear" finish.

When I bolted this route, I attempted to link the coolest features I could climb. It wanders a bit but is really fun with great balance moves combined with a powerful finish.

On the FA, I was a whisker from the send, pulling up the final overhang, when a hold broke sending me flying. Eric got his turn and put it in the bag.

Location

This route is located on the left side of the crag; on a darker colored, clean buttress.

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors.
(It shares anchors with Defective Agency and Hellhound.)

Photos

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Luke Childers
  5.11c
Luke Childers  
  5.11c
Wow! Bring your thinking cap and be ready to finish. Some really fun action!!! Would you want to miss that biz...? I think not. Get some! Jan 18, 2014
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
The first sport route at the East Quarry. The climb gives a good forearm pump with lots of interesting moves the entire way. The redpoint crux is past the last bolt. It has been a few years since I last climbed this route, so I am unaware of the most recent state of the holds. Around 2013, a piece of a handhold, past the 6th bolt, broke off, making this hold much worse & the climb harder. This section became the new crux, getting to the 7th bolt below the final roof. There are 8 protection bolts total. Jan 5, 2019