Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Deb Thompson, George Bracksieck, LP
Page Views: 1,578 total · 14/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a line that has beckoned for a while, but finally we got around to doing it, despite having some dreams of having the entire pillar tilt outward while upon it. The climbing seems relatively unique for N. Table Mt. and thus makes it worth a careful TR or a lead, if you are a bit off in the head.

Oddly, the rock sort of reminds one of Fisher Tower face climbs on the Cutler formation. A wire brush might help add some security to the foot holds.

Previously, the challenge was setting up an anchor and directionals. You approach for a TR using a gear anchor in a finger-sized crack above Crack, traverse leftward carefully, set some directionals (blue & black Alien. For those who really question the ability to assess rock quality for bolts in the lower pillar, this is the way to set up a TR.

Climb aboard carefully traversing leftward initially (although you can find easier climbing to the right), move upward finding various interesting edges, avoid a barndoor, and gain the top of the front pillar. Pull aboard the upper pillar moving rightward. Finish and smile that the whole thing is still standing.

Update: Okay, the line is now equipped with 4 bolts. The last bolt is a short Fixe bolt due to me dropping the cone and sleeve at the last bolt and not finding it until later. We were out of longer stainless steel Powers bolts (10-12 lb. torque limits), so I pulled out a granite shortie (for hand drilling to complete the like). Note, bring 2 TCU/Aliens for between bolts 3 & 4. The anchor bolts are at the top with chains to facilitate being able to pull the rope.

Please carefully test all holds.

Location Suggest change

This is right of Emilia's Corner and left of Crack on a blobular pillar.

Protection Suggest change

The anchor crack above Crack protects with yellow Alien/TCU to red TCU cams. The directionals we used included blue & black Aliens...the rest is now replaced by bolts.

Now this line sports 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts. Be sure to bring a yellow Alien/TCU & red Alien. A longer sling for the 4th bolt is useful.

Note, due to torque wrench failure, we didn't measure torque on these bolts.

The anchor bolts' locations necessitate longer chain extensions for rope pull convenience.

Photos

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