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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, George Bracksieck, LP
Page Views: 542 total · 13/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a line that has beckoned for a while, but finally we got around to doing it, despite having some dreams of having the entire pillar tilt outward while upon it. The climbing seems relatively unique for N. Table Mt. and thus makes it worth a careful TR or a lead, if you are a bit off in the head.

Oddly, the rock sort of reminds one of Fisher Tower face climbs on the Cutler formation. A wire brush might help add some security to the foot holds.

Previously, the challenge was setting up an anchor and directionals. You approach for a TR using a gear anchor in a finger-sized crack above Crack, traverse leftward carefully, set some directionals (blue & black Alien. For those who really question the ability to assess rock quality for bolts in the lower pillar, this is the way to set up a TR.

Climb aboard carefully traversing leftward initially (although you can find easier climbing to the right), move upward finding various interesting edges, avoid a barndoor, and gain the top of the front pillar. Pull aboard the upper pillar moving rightward. Finish and smile that the whole thing is still standing.

Update: Okay, the line is now equipped with 4 bolts. The last bolt is a short Fixe bolt due to me dropping the cone and sleeve at the last bolt and not finding it until later. We were out of longer stainless steel Powers bolts (10-12 lb. torque limits), so I pulled out a granite shortie (for hand drilling to complete the like). Note, bring 2 TCU/Aliens for between bolts 3 & 4. The anchor bolts are at the top with chains to facilitate being able to pull the rope.

Please carefully test all holds.

Location

This is right of Emilia's Corner and left of Crack on a blobular pillar.

Protection

The anchor crack above Crack protects with yellow Alien/TCU to red TCU cams. The directionals we used included blue & black Aliens...the rest is now replaced by bolts.

Now this line sports 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts. Be sure to bring a yellow Alien/TCU & red Alien. A longer sling for the 4th bolt is useful.

Note, due to torque wrench failure, we didn't measure torque on these bolts.

The anchor bolts' locations necessitate longer chain extensions for rope pull convenience.

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