The East Quarry Rock Climbing
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It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.
Per ANGUS WIESSNER: this is also known as The Sport Quarry.
There is another trail that can be used to access this crag. From the typical parking area (near the Easley to CO 58 on-ramp) you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There's room for 5-6 cars here. The trail stays to the right ~100 yards from the lot to head up the valley. Take a left where the trail forks to continue up valley. Make a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.
Per Richard Border: you can plug this into your gps for the 1st parking area: 3850 Easley Rd, Golden, CO 80403.
A1. Holy Mackerel, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).
A2. Natural Born Topropers, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).
BA2. Hairless Dog, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',
C. Pinkerton, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.
D. Sea Urchin, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).
E. Weakfish, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F1. Defective Agency, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.
F2. Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack), 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.
G. Pretzel Logic, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. High Tide, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
I1. Battle of the Bulbus, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
I2. Tendonkey Punch, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
J. Sand Dollar , 10-, 1p, bolts.
K. Sand Shark, 10+, 1p, gear.
L. Asbury Park, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
M. Jaws, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
N. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait), 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.
O. Chum, 12, 1p, TR.
P. Herringbone Direct , 12+, 1p, 40', TR.
Q. Primary Chimney?
R. Herringbone, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.
S. Pigeon of the Sea, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.
T. Slap Happy, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. Unnamed Contrived Seam In Between The Routes.
V. Play With Your Balls, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
W. The Goonch, 13-, 1p, TR.
X. Flying Fish, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
YX. Sea Robin aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
Z. Hammerhead, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
AA. Nurse Shark, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
BB1. Old Man and the Sea, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
BB2. Old Man And The Sea Direct, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.
CC. Deepwater Horizon, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
DD. Land Shark, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.
EE. Bluesfish, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
FF. Wooly Bully, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
FFGGHH. Wooly Woody, 12+, 1p, 50, bolts & gear.
GG. Tiger Shark, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
HH. Tiger's Woody, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.
II. S.S. Minnow, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
JJ. Bertha, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
KK. Great Wide Shark, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.
LL1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.
LL2. Emilia's Corner, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.
LL3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
MM. Crack Au Lait, 8, 1p, 50', gear.
NNOO. Bottoms Up, 8 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
OO. Good Ju-Ju, 8+ 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
PPOO. Gargoyle Ju-Ju, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
QQ. Deer Foot Chimney, 5 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
RR. Side of Mouse, 8+/9-, 1p, 50', TR.
SS. Isle of Mouse, 8, 1p, 50', gear & bolts or TR.
TTSS. Curious George, 8 (or 9), 1p, 45', TR.
UU. Pinnacle 2, 9- PG-13, 1p, 45', gear.
VV. Narrow Face, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
WW. Crack , 7+, 1p, 45', gear.
XX. Prow, 9+, 1p, 45', TR.
A. Point Break, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at The East Quarry
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