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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.

Getting There

This great little crag sits a few hundred yards east of The Quarry Wall. Follow the trail east until you encounter the crag on the left.

There is another trail that can be used to access this crag. From the typical parking area (near the Easley to CO 58 on-ramp) you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There's room for 5-6 cars here. The trail stays to the right ~100 yards from the lot to head up the valley. Take a left where the trail forks to continue up valley. Make a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.

Per Richard Border: you can plug this into your gps for the 1st parking area: 3850 Easley Rd, Golden, CO 80403.

L->R:

A1. Holy Mackerel, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).
A2. Natural Born Topropers, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).
BA2. Hairless Dog, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',
C. Pinkerton, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.
D. Sea Urchin, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).
E. Weakfish, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Pretzel Logic, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
G1. Defective Agency, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.
G2. Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack), 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.
H. High Tide, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
I1. Battle of the Bulbus, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
I2. Tendonkey Punch, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
J. Sand Dollar , 10-, 1p, bolts.
K. Sand Shark, 10+, 1p, gear.
L. Asbury Park, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
M. Jaws, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
N. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait), 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.
O. Chum, 12, 1p, TR.
P. Herringbone Direct , 12+, 1p, 40', TR.
Q. Primary Chimney?
R. Herringbone, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.
S. Pigeon of the Sea, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.
T. Slap Happy, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. Play With Your Balls, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
V. The Goonch, 13-, 1p, TR.
W. Flying Fish, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
XW. Sea Robin aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
ZY. Hammerhead, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
Z. Nurse Shark, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
AA1. Old Man and the Sea, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
AA2. Old Man And The Sea Direct, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.
BB. Deepwater Horizon, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Land Shark, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Bluesfish, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
EE. Wooly Bully, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
FF. Tiger Shark, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
GG. Tiger's Woody, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.
HH. S.S. Minnow, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
II. Bertha, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
JJ. Great Wide Shark, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.

KK1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.
KK2. Emilia's Corner, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.
KK3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.

LL. Crack Au Lait, 8, 1p, 50', gear.

MMNN. Bottoms Up, 8 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
NN. Good Ju-Ju, 8+ 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
OONN. Gargoyle Ju-Ju, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
PP. Deer Foot Chimney, 5 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
QQ. Side of Mouse, 8+/9-, 1p, 50', TR.
RR. Isle of Mouse, 8, 1p, 50', gear & bolts or TR.
SSRR. Curious George, 8 (or 9), 1p, 45', TR.
TT. Pinnacle 2, 9- PG-13, 1p, 45', gear.
UU. Narrow Face, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
VV. Crack , 7+, 1p, 45', gear.
WW. Prow, 9+, 1p, 45', TR.

East Bluffs
A. Point Break, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.

Dogs

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The East Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 48
Nurse Shark
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Hammerhead
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Sand Dollar
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Holy Mackerel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Sand Shark
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
Weakfish
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 24
Pretzel Logic
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 20
Jaws
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 47
Slap Happy
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 17
Old Man and the Sea
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 55
Deepwater Horizon
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Old Man And The Sea Direct
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Flying Fish
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Wooly Bully
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 34
Tiger's Woody
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nurse Shark
 48
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hammerhead
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sand Dollar
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Holy Mackerel
 58
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sand Shark
 28
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Weakfish
 36
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Pretzel Logic
 24
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Jaws
 20
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Slap Happy
 47
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Old Man and the Sea
 17
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Deepwater Horizon
 55
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Old Man And The Sea Direct
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flying Fish
 25
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Wooly Bully
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tiger's Woody
 34
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The East Quarry »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I have written and am about to publish a new guidebook that will include the climbs at the East Quarry, the other quarries on North Table and the Golden Cliffs. This guide titled "GOLDEN ROCK CLIMBS" will also include the sport climbs at nearby Golden Gate State Park. It should start to be available on September 10, 2010. I enjoy climbing at the East Quarry in the Winter months. It has become my favorite spot on North Table Mountain. Aug 27, 2010
RyanO
sunshine
RyanO   sunshine
Some people like 'em short and dirty, others like 'em long and graceful. Cracks, that is.

Watch out for the rattlers and take the longer trail, the one in the old North Table book is high impact and hard work.

Can't wait to see the new book! Sep 13, 2010
"Golden Rock Climbs is now available for $20.00 retail and features 144 pages including 32 cliff diagram photos, 14 climbing photos, topo drawings, maps and text. The new guide includes the basalt climbs of the Golden Cliffs, South Quarry, East Quarry, Sea Cliffs, Crater Crag on North Table Mountain. For the warmer months, it includes the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole (about 50 granite climbs). Oct 12, 2010
mike c
golden
mike c   golden
This little quarry has proved more adventurous than I could have imagined...the gear routes here can be serious undertakings, and I would strongly suggest taking gently on some of the gear (aside from some of the bomber cracks) before falling with any significant force...maybe even top rope prior to leading on gear. Most of the harder trad lines were headpointed. There are some solid placements (in between marginal ones) on most of the routes, but most of the landings are severe. All were led ground up in one form or another. I did a little testing of some placements here and took some simulated hard falls. The gear held up for the first few falls pretty well, but after a few more the rock exploded along with the gear... I thought those placements were more sound than they appeared...I am learning new things every day...I can't believe how warm and comfortable it gets up there on cold but sunny winter days. If any one wants to go up and climb there, let me know. I would love to share this amazing resource. We can only keep what we have by giving it away! Jan 11, 2011
Hi,

I found a pair of rock shoes today (Saturday 1/22) sitting out at North Table Mountain's East Quarry area, above Golden. Email me at msamet99@yahoo.com and describe them, and I'll get them back to you.

Thanks! Jan 21, 2012
What's the route to the right of Pinkerton? Bolted. Could go straight up or right over a block? Feb 29, 2012
Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
Hey guys, I may have left my North Face Summit Series black jacket at the base of the crag today. If anyone finds it, please call or text me at six 3 six - 2 four 8 - 8381.

Thanks! Dec 12, 2014
Gajewski, we found one. I will text you. Dec 13, 2014
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
I left a purple/blue wool knitted beanie up there on Saturday Dec. 13. If anyone finds it, will you contact me? Thanks! Dec 16, 2014
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
I found a pair of almost brand new Scarpas at East Quarry yesterday. Email me the description and where you left them, and I will get them to you.

scottfoto@gmail.com Jan 4, 2016
12/11/17 : FOUND LS Solutions at The East Quarry

I found some Solutions (resoled once) with a name written on the inner ankle area.
The Solutions are at Bentgate Mountaineering (Downtown Golden). Tell them the name on the ankle, and the size, and you can get your shoes back. Hopefully this finds the correct guy! Dec 11, 2017

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