Elevation: 6,260 ft
GPS: 39.773, -105.205 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,594 total · 623/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Feb 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.

Getting There

This great little crag sits a few hundred yards east of The Quarry Wall. Follow the trail east until you encounter the crag on the left.

There is another trail that can be used to access this crag. From the typical parking area (near the Easley to CO 58 on-ramp) you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There's room for 5-6 cars here. The trail stays to the right ~100 yards from the lot to head up the valley. Take a left where the trail forks to continue up valley. Make a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.

Per Richard Border: you can plug this into your gps for the 1st parking area: 3850 Easley Rd, Golden, CO 80403.

L->R:

A1. Holy Mackerel, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).

A2. Natural Born Topropers, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).

BA2. Hairless Dog, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',

C. Pinkerton, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.

D. Sea Urchin, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).

E. Weakfish, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.

F1. Defective Agency, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.

F2. Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack), 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.

G. Pretzel Logic, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.

H. High Tide, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.

I1. Battle of the Bulbus, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.

I2. Tendonkey Punch, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

J. Sand Dollar , 10-, 1p, bolts.

K. Sand Shark, 10+, 1p, gear.

L. Asbury Park, 11, 1p, 40', TR.

M. Jaws, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.

N. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait), 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.

O. Chum, 12, 1p, TR.

P. Herringbone Direct , 12+, 1p, 40', TR.

Q. Primary Chimney?

R. Herringbone, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.

S. Pigeon of the Sea, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.

T. Slap Happy, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.

U. Play With Your Balls, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.

V. The Goonch, 13-, 1p, TR.

W. Flying Fish, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.

XW. Sea Robin aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.

ZY. Hammerhead, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.

Z. Nurse Shark, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.

AA1. Old Man and the Sea, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.

AA2. Old Man And The Sea Direct, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.

BB. Deepwater Horizon, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

CC. Land Shark, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.

DD. Bluesfish, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.

EE. Wooly Bully, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.

EEFFGG. Wooly Woody, 12+, 1p, 50, bolts & gear.

FF. Tiger Shark, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.

GG. Tiger's Woody, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.

HH. S.S. Minnow, 7, 1p, 50', gear.

II. Bertha, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.

JJ. Great Wide Shark, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.

KK1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.

KK2. Emilia's Corner, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.

KK3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.

LL. Crack Au Lait, 8, 1p, 50', gear.

MMNN. Bottoms Up, 8 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.

NN. Good Ju-Ju, 8+ 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

OONN. Gargoyle Ju-Ju, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.

PP. Deer Foot Chimney, 5 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.

QQ. Side of Mouse, 8+/9-, 1p, 50', TR.

RR. Isle of Mouse, 8, 1p, 50', gear & bolts or TR.

SSRR. Curious George, 8 (or 9), 1p, 45', TR.

TT. Pinnacle 2, 9- PG-13, 1p, 45', gear.

UU. Narrow Face, 10, 1p, 45', TR.

VV. Crack , 7+, 1p, 45', gear.

WW. Prow, 9+, 1p, 45', TR.

East Bluffs

A. Point Break, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.

Dogs

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.

56 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The East Quarry Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The East Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 67
Nurse Shark
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
Hammerhead
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Sand Dollar
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 102
Holy Mackerel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Sand Shark
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 79
Weakfish
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 40
Pretzel Logic
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 49
Jaws
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 114
Slap Happy
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 105
Deepwater Horizon
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Old Man and the Sea
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 51
Flying Fish
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 43
Wooly Bully
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Chum
Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 65
Tiger's Woody
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nurse Shark
 67
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hammerhead
 50
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sand Dollar
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Holy Mackerel
 102
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sand Shark
 40
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Weakfish
 79
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Pretzel Logic
 40
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Jaws
 49
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Slap Happy
 114
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Deepwater Horizon
 105
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Old Man and the Sea
 32
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flying Fish
 51
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Wooly Bully
 43
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Chum
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, TR
Tiger's Woody
 65
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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