Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: D. Redosh, LP?
Page Views: 1,460 total · 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a short but fun TR in the right Quarry area. Doug found it. The climbing is more interesting now that a few big blocks were cleaned. It is a bit less solid at the top, but you get a nice mantel & a cool toe hold in the middle.

Still, there is dirt and lichen that may lead to whining, but there are some interesting lines over here, especially that El Matador-like double dihedral.

Thinking about this a bit more after cleaning it, it could be lead. There is a spot for a small (blue or green Alien) right below Doug's foot in the photo, and then a #1 and/or #2 Camalot in that foot hold up and right from Doug in the photo, but it would be R at least.

Location

This is about 200 yards to the right of The Mummy. This is probably the 2nd leftmost climb in this right Quarry area.

Protection

When it was first climbed, you could use probably like 30+ foot of sling to get that big chunk of rock up there, then a couple #2 Camalot and a #1 Camalot placement up there, and about 12 feet of sling to extend over the edge.

Now, with the bolts on the adjacent Holy Mackerel and Hairless Dog, you can clip 5 bolts to make this a retrobolted sport climb.

If you want to climb this as a trad climb, ignoring the bolts, you can use 2 green Aliens, 2 yellow Aliens, a red Alien, and a #2 Camalot. Done this way, the first piece comes after you make a challenging move.

Photos

mike c
golden
mike c   golden
I led this route and thought it was more like a 5.7. A tricky start with poor gear leads to a sweet, little, dirty, finger crack. Good small cams. I angled right after the finger crack to join the anchor atop Pinkerton. A nice name would be Barnacle. Apr 4, 2009
I lead this route a few weeks ago. The start is R after you stand up on a jug about 10 feet up you can get a few good small cams in a discontinuous crack above your head. Moving up past that there is a slightly larger placement (not a # 1, maybe a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot). Then you can clip the last two bolts on Hairless Dog and the anchors. If you are a solid 5.9 leader, this will be no problem. I agree with Mike probably not harder than 5.7. Dec 3, 2011