Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Schmeer
Page Views: 3,020 total · 25/month
Shared By: AOSR on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

There are no face holds to be found as you throw your way up this column.... Gaining the ledge after the crux sequence, good features lead to a tricky move at the anchors.

Location

This is in the center area of the wall. Climb the sand dune on a handily constructed rock staircase (thanks, Kirk and Mary!) to start up the obvious column formed by opposing aretes.

Protection

5 draws and some change for the chained anchors.

Photos

Luke Childers
  5.11d
Luke Childers  
  5.11d
Super fun! Wish the colum went all the way to the top!! Haha but still very interesting climbing to come above. Really liked it all around. Dec 22, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
A great climb with friendly handholds, that is worth repeating. When I documented this climb in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs" (2010) I rated it 5.11d/12a. Having done it many times over the years, I think it is more 12a than .11d, unless you've got it wired. I always stick clip the 1st bolt & stick clip a medium quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. With the draw on the 2nd bolt, the clip isn't too bad. Some people stick clip the 2nd bolt which makes the climb feel a slight bit easier. The bottom 20 feet, past first 2 bolts is really cool slapping between the two aeries.

The finish is tricky & could easily blow someone's onsight attempt. Climb to good edges just above & right of the anchor bolts. Ending the climb early, by clipping the draws on the anchor, misses the finish that moves right to the arete & then up. Jan 5, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
This was fantastic! The bottom slapping moves are stellar and could be made much harder if you use intermediate holds on the column instead of making big moves between the good ones.

The top is awkward...I fell after clipping one of the chains and repeated it. It would be better if the anchors were a foot or so higher, I think. Nov 25, 2018